Hi NR. Thank you for sharing your journey. Surfing can be frustrating, for sure and really beat us up mentally. I think you’ve nailed it! Accepting you’ll fail while trying to improve is the mental position we should all take... Also known as embracing the suck.
Working on one tiny tweak at one time has helped me the most.
Replied on Is it possible that a person's board ...
23 Apr 21:06
Hi Libby. It’s interesting where we all have our weaknesses and insecurities. On a skateboard and kiteboard I’m fine, goofy foot. When I first learned to surf, I was taught natural foot and boy, was that a mess. Nothing felt right, my balance, timing, intuition was completely off. I’m goofy on any type of boards but natural foot with other things. Is there a chance your balance foot isn’t really your balance foot?
I am un-training my mind (and body) from the pop up I used to do due to an inability to move my hip. My socket grew over the ball joint to lock it in place so it wouldn’t move (from a car accident injury). I had the surgery two years ago.
I had an aha moment about two weeks after that video while land training at home with video. My down to the ground to get into surf paddling position played backward was exactly what I needed to emulate getting off the ground and standing. I just needed to “rise” once both my feet where placed on the deck. That’s my trigger word now.