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October 09

Does anyone know a date for the October live review sessions? Considering making my kids come to the skate park to film me this weekend so I can summit for the review.

4
October 07


1\. The Fastest Line: The Brachistochrone Curve

What it is:
The Brachistochrone curve is a mathematical concept that shows the fastest path between two points isnā€™t always a straight lineā€”itā€™s a curve. In surfing, this means the fastest and most efficient way to ride a wave isnā€™t simply going straight down the face; itā€™s following a curved line that takes full advantage of gravity and the waveā€™s energy.

Surfing takeaway:
When you follow this natural curve, youā€™re letting gravity pull you down the wave while gaining speed, just like a rollercoaster. The trick is to use the waveā€™s energy to find the path that makes you go faster with less effort. This is what we call the fastest line, and itā€™s all about flowing with the waveā€™s shape.

Why it matters:
By following the waveā€™s natural curve, youā€™ll be able to surf faster and with more control. Itā€™s the difference between fighting the wave and flowing with it.

2\. The Vortex: Where the Waveā€™s Energy Lives

What it is:
When a wave breaks, it creates a vortexā€”a spiraling motion of water, like a whirlpool. The closer you are to this vortex, the more energy you can tap into. The vortex is the waveā€™s power source, where all the energy is concentrated.

Surfing takeaway:
Think of the waveā€™s energy like the center of a whirlpool: the closer you are to it, the more power you can use to stay fast and in control. Riding near the pocket of the wave (close to the vortex) keeps you connected to this energy, allowing you to surf longer and make sharper turns.

Why it matters:
Staying near the waveā€™s vortex helps you maintain speed and power throughout the ride. If you stray too far from it, you lose the waveā€™s energy, which means you slow down or even fall off the wave.

3\. The Coanda Effect: Water Sticking to the Surfboard

What it is:
The Coanda effect is a principle in fluid dynamics that explains how water (or any fluid) likes to stick to curved surfaces. In surfing, this means that when you put your surfboard on rail (tilting the board so one side digs into the water), the water sticks to the side of your board, allowing it to flow smoothly along the wave.

Surfing takeaway:
When your boardā€™s edge (the rail) stays connected to the water, you reduce drag and tap into the waveā€™s energy more efficiently. This is what helps you make smooth turns and maintain speed while riding the waveā€™s face.

Why it matters:
Using the Coanda effect allows you to stick to the wave, ride it more efficiently, and make sharper, cleaner turns with less resistance. Itā€™s what helps you stay in control, even when youā€™re surfing fast.

4\. The Hohmann Transfer Orbit: Energy-Efficient Trajectories

What it is:
In space, a Hohmann transfer orbit is the most energy-efficient way to move between two orbits. In surfing, we can think of this as a metaphor for moving between two key parts of the wave: the bottom and the top. To surf efficiently, you need to move between these two parts using as little energy as possible while still gaining speed.

Surfing takeaway:
Picture surfing in a figure-eight pattern. When you turn at the bottom of the wave, you gain lift (like a slingshot) to help you prepare for the next move. Then, when you turn off the top, you use gravity to pull you back down with speed. These movements keep you in sync with the wave, letting the waveā€™s energy do most of the work.

Why it matters:
By transitioning smoothly between the bottom turn and top turn, you can maintain flow and stay in the waveā€™s most powerful zones. This helps you borrow energy from the wave to keep your ride going, without wasting your own energy.

How These Principles Work Together

ā€¢ The Brachistochrone curve shows you the fastest path to take on a waveā€”not straight down, but following the waveā€™s natural curve.
ā€¢ The vortex is where the waveā€™s energy is strongest, and staying close to it helps you tap into that power.
ā€¢ The Coanda effect keeps water flowing smoothly along your surfboard, letting you ride the waveā€™s energy with less resistance and sharper turns.
ā€¢ The Hohmann transfer orbit concept helps you move efficiently between the bottom and top of the wave, using gravity and lift to maintain speed.

When you combine these principles, youā€™re not just riding the waveā€”youā€™re working with the waveā€™s energy in the most efficient, powerful way possible. This means faster rides, smoother turns, and using the waveā€™s natural forces to your advantage.

Why Itā€™s Important for Surfers

Understanding these concepts helps you realize that surfing isnā€™t just about physical strength or forcing your way through the wave. Itā€™s about learning how to tap into the energy already present in the wave and using it to your advantage. The more you understand the wave, the more you can flow with it, making your surfing feel effortless.

This is what OMBEā€™s 4Line Program is all about: teaching you to harness the waveā€™s power through smart, efficient movement. Itā€™s surfing with nature, not against itā€”using science to become a better, faster, and more confident surfer.

3
October 05

I'm not trying to ruffle feathers, but I registered for an OMBE surf trip. I'm SUPER excited, but found out that boards aren't provided. It's the only surf camp I've ever been to where the board is not included. For the price, I'd expect it to be covered for sure. But my main issue is that from a teaching/learning perspective for a beginner/low intermediate level surfer like myself, it's often the case that we're not riding the right board (beginners often ride shorter boards than they should). So having to bring a board (aside from a additional cost) might end up putting the student in the position of having a board that won't maximise the learning that could happen on retreat. Or maybe they'd have to end up renting after they already brought their board?

It absolutely makes sense for higher level surfers who are more likely to be on an appropriate board, the one they use all the time.

I was wanting OMBE to weigh in on what size board I should be riding for my skill level to maximise the trip. If I bring the wrong board, am I out of luck? I guess I don't mind paying the extra for a rental for the week (slightly irksome), but how do I know they'll have an appropriate board for me if they're not typically providing boards for their students?

Clearly I'm struggling with how I should approach the trip. I HATE travelling with boards. It adds a financial cost but more so a mental burden and hassle involved in sorting them out. I have an 8' longboard as well as a 7'2", 7' and 6'8" funboard. Which board(s) do I bring? Is it a risk to just trust that there will be appropriate rentals for me if I don't?

My goals for the trip is to nail down the basics (always looking up at where I want to go and coffee cup in a neutral stance) while catching green waves, riding the face.

Again, I am SO pumped.about the trip and SO grateful to OMBE and the community. Looking for advice.

šŸ™šŸ¼

10
 
October 05

OMBE training at the Wave, Bristol UK
Are there any future plans for clinics at the Wave in Bristol, UK?

5
August 04
00:06

Gold Coast winter evenings

4
July 30
ā€¢ Edited (Jul 30, 2024)

Great story. Around April of this year, I told my hubby that Iā€™m giving myself until August to get on a FISH. Of course, he thought I was crazy being that I just got back to surfing in April after a 5 year break,
1\\. Last Thursday, I received a notification that I won a Mick Fanning (shark bite not included) Fish through a random drawing!! šŸ„³šŸŽ‰šŸ‘
2\\. Last night, our neighbor came by to give me his fish. Heā€™s moving out of state and he thought I would love it!! šŸ„³šŸŽ‰šŸ‘
Iā€™ve been comparing all different fishes, makes and sizes. Now I have a 5ā€™10ā€ and and 7ā€™10ā€ fishesā€¦ the decision has been made for me!! I canā€™t wait to get on these boards!! šŸ„³šŸ„³
MORAL OF THE STORY? I should have wished for a million bucks!! šŸ˜€šŸ˜€

What are you currently riding? What do you wish to be riding in the near future? And in the distant future?

Iā€™ve streamlined my quiver to include only the boards I love! If I hate it, itā€™s got to go!
I currently have
2 Walden 9ā€™2ā€ long boards
1 Bing Trimulux 9ā€™2ā€
Meyerhoffer 8ā€™8ā€ (that hubby is embarrassed to be seen with me) šŸ˜‚
And now the 2 fishes above.
My Bing is my all time favorite. It feels like itā€™s part of me. I hope to add a Bing noserider or Takayama In the Pink soon.

4
August 02
ā€¢ Edited (Aug 02, 2024)

Hi guys,
I wanted to share a small tip of how I remind myself of what is my goal in each surf.. in case anyone finds it useful. I draw my 'trigger words' on my board with black wax so you I can easily remove and change it or do just before paddling in. This way I constantly see it when I paddle or sit.
I made this one to help me remember to point the nose and my eyes where I want to go and remember the coffee cup hand as I struggle to put it on straight from the take off on my backhand.
Have a great day everyone!

6
September 24

Hey Ombe crew,
First time caller long time listener.Ā 
I have been skating on a smooth star for years now (i know don't judge me yet) as i didn't wanna fork out the funds for a new board as mine wasn'tĀ that old.
I am now in the market for a new board and am going to make the transition to carver CX trucks.Ā 
I have an email saved that Luke sent out in 2022 where he discussed his own carver setup. He mentioned that he used a pool board deck. As I really only skate in the park or the pool nowadays I think it makes sense to get that. Do you guys have any recs for pool boards decks atm? I am 6'3 so hoping to get one that is 33"/34" inches is possible.
Thanks in advance for your help.Ā 
Clayton Nienaber, Luke Hardacre

7
September 30
ā€¢ Edited (Sep 30, 2024)

Hi all. Lucky enough to be asking this question from El Transito, Nicaragua šŸ˜Ž (on one of my 2-3 trips per year, the only times I can surf)

What do you use for ear plugs (if you use them)? I have ear issues and so use earplugs but am not happy with them. Suggestions? Anyone try SurfEars?

3
 
October 04

Any tips on how to get the most out of a day of close out sets?

2