Does anyone know a date for the October live review sessions? Considering making my kids come to the skate park to film me this weekend so I can summit for the review.
1\. The Fastest Line: The Brachistochrone Curve
What it is:
The Brachistochrone curve is a mathematical concept that shows the fastest path between two points isnāt always a straight lineāitās a curve. In surfing, this means the fastest and most efficient way to ride a wave isnāt simply going straight down the face; itās following a curved line that takes full advantage of gravity and the waveās energy.
Surfing takeaway:
When you follow this natural curve, youāre letting gravity pull you down the wave while gaining speed, just like a rollercoaster. The trick is to use the waveās energy to find the path that makes you go faster with less effort. This is what we call the fastest line, and itās all about flowing with the waveās shape.
Why it matters:
By following the waveās natural curve, youāll be able to surf faster and with more control. Itās the difference between fighting the wave and flowing with it.
2\. The Vortex: Where the Waveās Energy Lives
What it is:
When a wave breaks, it creates a vortexāa spiraling motion of water, like a whirlpool. The closer you are to this vortex, the more energy you can tap into. The vortex is the waveās power source, where all the energy is concentrated.
Surfing takeaway:
Think of the waveās energy like the center of a whirlpool: the closer you are to it, the more power you can use to stay fast and in control. Riding near the pocket of the wave (close to the vortex) keeps you connected to this energy, allowing you to surf longer and make sharper turns.
Why it matters:
Staying near the waveās vortex helps you maintain speed and power throughout the ride. If you stray too far from it, you lose the waveās energy, which means you slow down or even fall off the wave.
3\. The Coanda Effect: Water Sticking to the Surfboard
What it is:
The Coanda effect is a principle in fluid dynamics that explains how water (or any fluid) likes to stick to curved surfaces. In surfing, this means that when you put your surfboard on rail (tilting the board so one side digs into the water), the water sticks to the side of your board, allowing it to flow smoothly along the wave.
Surfing takeaway:
When your boardās edge (the rail) stays connected to the water, you reduce drag and tap into the waveās energy more efficiently. This is what helps you make smooth turns and maintain speed while riding the waveās face.
Why it matters:
Using the Coanda effect allows you to stick to the wave, ride it more efficiently, and make sharper, cleaner turns with less resistance. Itās what helps you stay in control, even when youāre surfing fast.
4\. The Hohmann Transfer Orbit: Energy-Efficient Trajectories
What it is:
In space, a Hohmann transfer orbit is the most energy-efficient way to move between two orbits. In surfing, we can think of this as a metaphor for moving between two key parts of the wave: the bottom and the top. To surf efficiently, you need to move between these two parts using as little energy as possible while still gaining speed.
Surfing takeaway:
Picture surfing in a figure-eight pattern. When you turn at the bottom of the wave, you gain lift (like a slingshot) to help you prepare for the next move. Then, when you turn off the top, you use gravity to pull you back down with speed. These movements keep you in sync with the wave, letting the waveās energy do most of the work.
Why it matters:
By transitioning smoothly between the bottom turn and top turn, you can maintain flow and stay in the waveās most powerful zones. This helps you borrow energy from the wave to keep your ride going, without wasting your own energy.
How These Principles Work Together
ā¢ The Brachistochrone curve shows you the fastest path to take on a waveānot straight down, but following the waveās natural curve.
ā¢ The vortex is where the waveās energy is strongest, and staying close to it helps you tap into that power.
ā¢ The Coanda effect keeps water flowing smoothly along your surfboard, letting you ride the waveās energy with less resistance and sharper turns.
ā¢ The Hohmann transfer orbit concept helps you move efficiently between the bottom and top of the wave, using gravity and lift to maintain speed.
When you combine these principles, youāre not just riding the waveāyouāre working with the waveās energy in the most efficient, powerful way possible. This means faster rides, smoother turns, and using the waveās natural forces to your advantage.
Why Itās Important for Surfers
Understanding these concepts helps you realize that surfing isnāt just about physical strength or forcing your way through the wave. Itās about learning how to tap into the energy already present in the wave and using it to your advantage. The more you understand the wave, the more you can flow with it, making your surfing feel effortless.
This is what OMBEās 4Line Program is all about: teaching you to harness the waveās power through smart, efficient movement. Itās surfing with nature, not against itāusing science to become a better, faster, and more confident surfer.
I'm not trying to ruffle feathers, but I registered for an OMBE surf trip. I'm SUPER excited, but found out that boards aren't provided. It's the only surf camp I've ever been to where the board is not included. For the price, I'd expect it to be covered for sure. But my main issue is that from a teaching/learning perspective for a beginner/low intermediate level surfer like myself, it's often the case that we're not riding the right board (beginners often ride shorter boards than they should). So having to bring a board (aside from a additional cost) might end up putting the student in the position of having a board that won't maximise the learning that could happen on retreat. Or maybe they'd have to end up renting after they already brought their board?
It absolutely makes sense for higher level surfers who are more likely to be on an appropriate board, the one they use all the time.
I was wanting OMBE to weigh in on what size board I should be riding for my skill level to maximise the trip. If I bring the wrong board, am I out of luck? I guess I don't mind paying the extra for a rental for the week (slightly irksome), but how do I know they'll have an appropriate board for me if they're not typically providing boards for their students?
Clearly I'm struggling with how I should approach the trip. I HATE travelling with boards. It adds a financial cost but more so a mental burden and hassle involved in sorting them out. I have an 8' longboard as well as a 7'2", 7' and 6'8" funboard. Which board(s) do I bring? Is it a risk to just trust that there will be appropriate rentals for me if I don't?
My goals for the trip is to nail down the basics (always looking up at where I want to go and coffee cup in a neutral stance) while catching green waves, riding the face.
Again, I am SO pumped.about the trip and SO grateful to OMBE and the community. Looking for advice.
šš¼
OMBE training at the Wave, Bristol UK
Are there any future plans for clinics at the Wave in Bristol, UK?
Great story. Around April of this year, I told my hubby that Iām giving myself until August to get on a FISH. Of course, he thought I was crazy being that I just got back to surfing in April after a 5 year break,
1\\. Last Thursday, I received a notification that I won a Mick Fanning (shark bite not included) Fish through a random drawing!! š„³šš
2\\. Last night, our neighbor came by to give me his fish. Heās moving out of state and he thought I would love it!! š„³šš
Iāve been comparing all different fishes, makes and sizes. Now I have a 5ā10ā and and 7ā10ā fishesā¦ the decision has been made for me!! I canāt wait to get on these boards!! š„³š„³
MORAL OF THE STORY? I should have wished for a million bucks!! šš
What are you currently riding? What do you wish to be riding in the near future? And in the distant future?
Iāve streamlined my quiver to include only the boards I love! If I hate it, itās got to go!
I currently have
2 Walden 9ā2ā long boards
1 Bing Trimulux 9ā2ā
Meyerhoffer 8ā8ā (that hubby is embarrassed to be seen with me) š
And now the 2 fishes above.
My Bing is my all time favorite. It feels like itās part of me. I hope to add a Bing noserider or Takayama In the Pink soon.
Hi guys,
I wanted to share a small tip of how I remind myself of what is my goal in each surf.. in case anyone finds it useful. I draw my 'trigger words' on my board with black wax so you I can easily remove and change it or do just before paddling in. This way I constantly see it when I paddle or sit.
I made this one to help me remember to point the nose and my eyes where I want to go and remember the coffee cup hand as I struggle to put it on straight from the take off on my backhand.
Have a great day everyone!
Hey Ombe crew,
First time caller long time listener.Ā
I have been skating on a smooth star for years now (i know don't judge me yet) as i didn't wanna fork out the funds for a new board as mine wasn'tĀ that old.
I am now in the market for a new board and am going to make the transition to carver CX trucks.Ā
I have an email saved that Luke sent out in 2022 where he discussed his own carver setup. He mentioned that he used a pool board deck. As I really only skate in the park or the pool nowadays I think it makes sense to get that. Do you guys have any recs for pool boards decks atm? I am 6'3 so hoping to get one that is 33"/34" inches is possible.
Thanks in advance for your help.Ā
Clayton Nienaber, Luke Hardacre
Hi all. Lucky enough to be asking this question from El Transito, Nicaragua š (on one of my 2-3 trips per year, the only times I can surf)
What do you use for ear plugs (if you use them)? I have ear issues and so use earplugs but am not happy with them. Suggestions? Anyone try SurfEars?