Maria Molè

Long Beach, NY, United States

Apr 28 at 09:55 PM

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And this screenshot shows more of the same, relying on back leg to take on the weight.

Do you go from cobra to plank before walking up? Would that alleviate the positioning of your lower back?

As far as hand placement, I know for my body proportions, my hands need to be really, really low to get lots of room for my legs to pass.

I remember very early on, trying to surf for first time in a 5/4, I started placing my hands much higher because it was so hard to keep them low and I just could not get up.

I dropped my board size considerably Friday morning, thanks to you. 💖👏 It went great. It was easier than I had convinced myself it would be. I went to a 7’6” (a 1.5 foot drop). I’ll go to a 6’8” after a few sessions on this.

My goal for the next session is to worry less about getting up and focus more where I’m going. 😀

Where do you feel you on your OMBE journey, Libby?

Apr 28 at 09:44 PM

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I’ve taken screenshots of Ant’s walk up. The back foot if I duplicate, leaves me putting all of my weight on the back leg, as does Ant. That’s a big ask from me for muscle groups that haven’t fired correctly since I was hit by a car when I was 8. And it puts my back in a super arched position. One more screenshot coming.

Apr 25 at 09:34 PM

Libby Stano

I’ve totally hijacked your post, Libby! 😕

Boxing I have a natural stance. 😀 I fear for my life on a skateboard natural stance!!

My back was overly arched in that video. I struggled to get my legs through, hence the not looking where I was going.

Watching my on land videos, I had an aha moment. You can see how I’m not bent over anymore and just rise up. I’ve been able to duplicate this in the water.

The first part of video, the position I am in when I crouch down to get onto the floor into paddle position. I just reverse engineered getting up. And now my legs fit and my back doesn’t hunch over and I’m able to look around.

My walk ups presurgery were very different. I was unable to get to the floor or get up from the floor in a single movement. I’m working on breaking that instinct of needing a lot of moves.

https://www.canva.com/design/DAGDa_TIICc/0ciGyOFryNouTH7epTThkA/edit?utm_content=DAGDa_TIICc&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link2&utm_source=sharebutton

Apr 23 at 09:16 PM

I ran out of characters on that last reply 😀

Yeah, I think muscle memory is extremely complex and takes time to make new pathways and to break old pathways. I have a few small muscles in the front, upper quads that do not work, they don’t fire. The rehab on those has been really lengthy. It goes back to the locked up ball joint and muscles not firing in an attempt to stabilize the joint. They had a different purpose. I still struggle with that part, for sure.

Clayton says slow is smooth and smooth is fast. I slowed all my land training down and it is truly helpful for your mind to grasp what you are working on.

Apr 23 at 09:06 PM

Hi Libby. It’s interesting where we all have our weaknesses and insecurities. On a skateboard and kiteboard I’m fine, goofy foot. When I first learned to surf, I was taught natural foot and boy, was that a mess. Nothing felt right, my balance, timing, intuition was completely off. I’m goofy on any type of boards but natural foot with other things. Is there a chance your balance foot isn’t really your balance foot?

I am un-training my mind (and body) from the pop up I used to do due to an inability to move my hip. My socket grew over the ball joint to lock it in place so it wouldn’t move (from a car accident injury). I had the surgery two years ago.

I had an aha moment about two weeks after that video while land training at home with video. My down to the ground to get into surf paddling position played backward was exactly what I needed to emulate getting off the ground and standing. I just needed to “rise” once both my feet where placed on the deck. That’s my trigger word now.

Apr 23 at 08:38 PM

Hi NR. Thank you for sharing your journey. Surfing can be frustrating, for sure and really beat us up mentally. I think you’ve nailed it! Accepting you’ll fail while trying to improve is the mental position we should all take... Also known as embracing the suck.

Working on one tiny tweak at one time has helped me the most.

Apr 23 at 12:38 AM

Hi Libby,

That’s no easy feat— being pulled by a boat! Sounds like much fun though!

I do love longboarding style. So many amazing female longboarders out there. I do hope Clayton will branch out a bit on OMBE to be a bit more inclusive of longboarders. With that said, the information in this program so far has been incredibly useful and does translate to both styles of surfing. I am on week three of the Beginners Start Program.

I was watching so much garbled information on surfing. I tune out everyone else’s noise online and at the break. Im only following OMBE’s sound advice. I feel like it’s an online university for surfing.

Can’t wait to see more from you and the group, it’s very encouraging. 😀

Apr 22 at 11:57 AM

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My OREO Biscuit; Rincon, Puerto Rico, Jan 2024

This was on a 9’ Takayama In the Pink

Apr 22 at 11:52 AM

The one near me in the States is at The American Dream Mall in New Jersey. We’re about 1ish hours by car from there. It’s small and indoors which is great for our winters here. The wave has a pretty short ride. I’ll be going again this Friday and am looking forward to some video footage.

Last weekend we were at the Waco, Texas Wave Pool and it couldn’t have been a more different experience than the wave at the NJ indoor pool. My husband and I are planning another Waco TX trip. It’s a bit of a hike, about 4 hours by plane.

I was at intermediate about 5 years ago but surgeries and hip replacement has had me out of the water for a while. So instead of trying to start at intermediate, I kicked myself all the way back to beginner. But this time with a high quality surf coaching program. I need to learn to surf properly. I was doing a work around to get up to my feet due to my limitations that I need to relearn, create new mind-muscle connections.

I can’t wait to see OUR progression!

Apr 22 at 08:12 AM

Definitely very lucky!! Drone footage or surfing and waves is just so amazing, I imagine it’s how a bird sees flying about. You should hire him periodically. 😀 I wish there was someone here by me that offered that. I was always so against being filmed but it is so helpful!

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