So true. Graham Marsden.

I would go one further and apply this idea to the session itself. So many people sit out the back waiting for the perfect bowly wave, letting every sub-standard wave pass them by.

I find that I consistently underestimate the opportunities available on a wave. A good way to combat this is: I force myself to catch the first 10 waves that come my way, no matter what.

Yes I end up sitting on the inside and wearing the sets on the head. But once I get into this rhythm, I can double or triple the amount of actual surfing I do in a session, especially when it’s crowded (which is basically every surf where I live).

Great article, thank you for sharing. It’s so true! Some of the best days have been in these situations where you’re just like eff it, let’s paddle out.

And in a shameless plug (for my hubby, Rob) during hurricane Hermine in our backyard surfing, he was photographed and in a feature on The Inertia. He’s surfer image #9 or #10, depending on how it loads in the photo gallery. I went out 2 days after and caught some of the best waves of my life! I remember sitting out on my balcony watching him surf; I called his cell phone to leave him a voicemail just to tell him how he just caught some of the most beautiful waves ever… a little momento from Hermine.

https://www.theinertia.com/surf/holy-hermine-10-images-of-hurricane-hermines-east-coast-bounty/?pid=38568