Day 8:

Another pre work bowl session...just working on all the things, but mostly focusing on the compression extension and listening/feeling the rhythm of the transition. Also, a small 7 sec clip of me from this weekend, as a tiny spec in the ocean, trying to apply that bowl practice to what we consider a wave here in South Carolina.

Don't expect any feedback on the surfing cause unless you zoom in, which I'm not sure you can do, can't even see me and it's a Short clip on a little closeout so nothing great to see. Only included it to show that I am attempting to take my dry land practice into the ocean with me when I go.

Every day just gonna keep grinding...

Month of Surf Training in September:

Decided I am going to dedicate myself to 1 month of surfing/ surf training everyday for at least 30 mins a day.

If there are waves ill surf even if it is just catching white water on a foamie. I'll practice my pop ups and weight shifting and how that effects board movement.

If no waves I will paddle up and down the beach for 30 mins. Work on paddle endurance and low back strength.

If it's inclement weather and I can't get in the water I will surf skate, weight train, stretch, bosu mind surf while watching a John john video.

30 days of training or working towards my goal of improving every day.

I'll come back on October 1st and let every one know how I progressed.

My current baseline: I can pop up with little to no issues. I'm comfortable in the ocean regardless of wave size. I can get down the line with minor compression and extension.

Goals:

Paddle endurance

Working towards line 3 surfing (compression/ extension, arm control, utilizing more than the bottom of the wave.)

Doing a turn! Any turn will do to start....

Really want to get cutbacks down.

Let's see how it goes!

Mick Fanning Wiggle Video.

Does anyone know where I can find that video of Mick showing the wiggle vs compression on the surf board? I know Clayton loves to use it as an example, but I can not find it anywhere to share with others.

I always mention in the surfskate Facebook community but being able to share that example would be nice just can't find it on YouTube or anywhere.

Thanks

Was so stoked I wanted to share. My 7 year olds first proper wave. Forgive the overly excited Dad yell... honestly it was enough to bring me to tears. My 9 year old, that didn't want to do Surf Camp got a couple bombs as well.

Hoped they get hooked for life and give me 2 permanent surf buddies. Is it too soon to order them a couple of Grom Sci-fi boards?

Took some different angles of video of my figure 8 practice to see if I was bending at waist too much into the 2nd turn and/or if I was letting my coffee cup arm get behind me into the cutback turn.
These videos are not of all the same attempt cause I don't have 3 phones to record all the angles at once, but I tried to select turns that all looked/ felt similar when I did them for a better comparison.
Feel free to let me know what you think. I know myself watching these angles I definitely could get my head around more on the turn and I notice I tend to hold my breath, which now that I've noticed I can work on making some fart noises or something going into it.
As a side note: legs are burning after all the attempts I made today. Skating a bowl after leg day= hard!

Feel like they are getting better, definitely more consistent.
Really working on trying to keep my hands up going into 1st turn and then just bringing the right elbow up and pivoting around the left arm.
2nd turn again trying to keep arms from getting out of control and flinging them wildly in front of me or across my body.
Again, I feel like it's coming along nicely... if anyone sees anything else I need to tune up please let me know.
New goal: is to get that second turn up and onto the coping. Let's see if I can get there without breaking something.

Yeeewww.

FIRST TRY....Not really but....COUNT IT!

Yes, I realize it ain't pretty. On the backhand my arm isn't where I want, it doesn't look all smooth and flowing BUT a WIN is a WIN!
Made quite a few of them today. Now I can dial it in and get it more stylish. Keep that right arm from swinging in front of me on the backhand, maybe work on carving it out a little longer around the corner, get my left arm up higher and kiss the knees more, all the good things will come now that the first step is done.

Thanks to all the OMBE members for the help and pointers. Totally stoked to be Over the first hurdle.

YEEEWWWW!

New year...new goals... I'm gonna get this figure 8 thing sooner or later.

This time I really wanted to work on keeping my hands up, not letting them drop before the first turn and swing as much (as in 1 example). Not sure why I do that anyway but it's a hard habit to break.

That did seem to make me feel more stable and balanced going into the second turn. Feel like I could have maybe made some of these, but felt I didn't have enough speed into the 2nd part and was overall just uncomfortable with the backside turn.

After these attempts I did head over to the roll in and quarter pipe bank and just practiced the backside turn for another 15 mins or so to get more used to it. I know those are supposed to be easier since you can see the turn and the bottom of the bowl but I do everything backwards apparently...

I'm gonna get it!

First day in weeks it's not raining or freezing and the bowl is dry... Just in time to test out the new shred stick my daughter's got me for Christmas.
Back to working on my figure 8s, haven't skated in a while+ new board so just getting used to it.
Do have to say though for my fellow taller OMBE crew with a wider stance: I already love this new board! Nose kick kept my front foot locked it, felt like I had a normal stance for my size for once (I am 6'3"). Felt like I was riding a cruisey mid-length.

Board specs:
Powell Peralta JM Duran Slidwinder model
Carver C5 trucks
Bones red bearing
P.P. Dragon formula 93a 60mm wheels

Totally stoked on the board and how fast and stable it felt.
Definitely could have made that last attempt if I didn't fear the roll in lip so much. Can't wait to get back at it. Yeeeewww

The Eddie is called on! 30-35 foot Hawaii scale.
I just checked the surfline cam for Waimea, people lined up on the beach in the dark and waves are Yuge!!!
Believe 2016 was the last event and I'm hearing it's bigger this year.... stoked to watch it. Hoping John John wins his second!