Lennart Neubauer still fixing it. But here are some thoughts:
Letst start with a question: are you expecting to fall? It doet of seems that way. It seems like a silly question, but think about it.
So here are some thoughts on fixing:
- you fall backwards because you're not twisting your upper body and thus getting back over your board and leading it down the wave.
- I would suggest you're aiming to get your upper body to face the camera.
- to do that actively pull your left arm (and thus your body) around. Basically your arm should be pointing to the right of the screen.
- at the same time bring your right arm around. Touching your fave with the upper side of your hand can help to twist more quickly.
A great place to practice is in the bowl on a surf skate. I've done that a lot myself. My personal problem is I then forget to do it while in the water.
Hope that helps.
Commented on Hi all! Hope you are doing well. I wa...
17 May 04:41
One thing to consider is to simply wait a whole lot longer before turning to paddle. (You could easily get into this wave with just one or max two stokes). That would give you more time to read the wave. Which would help your positioning and hence also your speed generation.
This wave is pretty much perfect and it doesn't break so quickly so you het away with it. But if this was a short beach break you can easily paddle yourself out of position this way so it's good to build the right habit early.