The best of today. I’m going right.

I’m absolutely loving the 2 paddle, Oreo biscuit takeoff. Game changer. Thank you! But is there a size / power above which we need to paddle more before we Oreo? For example head high+ reef breaks in the Ments (I’m at HTs, then Playgrounds for several weeks and it’s forecast to get overhead & barreling). Trying to avoid getting overpowered and sucked up the face too much, but maybe you’ll just say “Oreo better mate”

A couple from today. I feel like it’s nowhere near as explosive and fast as it felt (says every surfer seeing themselves surf)

A couple from today. I feel like it’s nowhere near as explosive and fast as it felt (says every surfer seeing themselves surf)

I am still so far away from decent surfing that this is even embarrassing to say, but I have felt the “buttons” on the board for the first time and could turn to the foam and the back to the face of the wave. Skateboarding is helping a lot. Next time I’d like to drop more vertical from the pop up and try a proper bottom turn. In addition I have to look better towards were I want to go. On the skate it’s starting to happen. Not yet in the water.

5 phases of surfing where the line you take reveals your energy signature

Justin Price Pick a better line and stance ajustment to front foot

Alex Delay bottom turn and hold for longer.Use rail on top turn.

Brad Payne Head postioning