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Miles

Hobart, Australia

51yo. orthopedic surgeon. surfing off and since childhood. never achieved a level I’m happy with
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2 posts
3 comments

Commented on Any advice on how to improve this?

14 Aug 19:21

Ok, I’m no expert.

But I reckon it would look cool if you let the energy of the wave continue to pull the board up the last bit to the lip after y you turn your head. ( basically as clay says, don’t rush)

Can turn head and look for the next line, but let the board keep going and finish the turn.

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Replied on Looking for help. I cannot for the li...

28 Jul 23:51

Tried that.

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Replied on Looking for help. I cannot for the li...

28 Jul 07:04

Thanks Martin

What happens is I get stressed about catching the wave and falling. So focused on paddling and standing up, I forget there’s more to do. ( ie scum wave to be enjoyed)

I get tunnel vision, it’s almost like I don’t see anything. I think I’m looking at the nose of the board, worried it will catch, or a couple of feet to the side of the front of the board.

Talking through it, maybe I can try to focus on the upcoming wave riding and the line down the face, and trust that the paddle in and standing up will take care of itself………

A fun wave, not a scum wave

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Posted

27 Jul 19:04

Looking for help.

I cannot for the life of me, stop myself looking down at the board once the waves get above head height.

( with the expected outcome)

Anyone had this problem or have any tips on how TF I can fix it?????
8

Posted

28 Mar 12:20

Hey crew. I wanted to share a breakthrough insight I’ve had recently. I’ve heard it said before in different ways, but I feel there’s been a switch flipped in my take off.

As best as I can explain…

Surfing doesn’t start when I stand up. It starts as I paddle for the wave. More so it starts the first hint of lift and energy from the wave. Now I’m looking where I want to go and adjusting the front to back and side to side angle of the board to surf the wave. Now as I stand up, I’ve gotta be smooth to not upset that planing and angle I’ve chosen to get into the wave. I’m still surfing the wave right through the process of getting to my feet. Now, hopefully my feet are in the right spot on the board, but even if not, I’m still surfing the wave as it seems most appropriate to do at that time as best as I can. Looking and feeling the wave and the board and getting into that athletic fighting/ sprinting stance to be ready to do the next appropriate thing.

Bit of an obvious one I guess, but really concentrating on this has completely transformed my take off.

Big love.

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