Sorry to hear that, best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Is it your front or back foot?

Coryn D. This is all I get...

Coryn D. OK, that's weird, it won't show it to me ☹️

Coryn D. Can you see that video?

Most obvious thing I can see is that you're in a poo-man stance, bending from the hips, because your back knee is pointing out to the side instead of to where you're going.

If I were you, I'd look at the surf skating drills and practice compressing and extending over the front foot with your head up and back straight.

Once you've got the posture right, the rest should be much easier.

Oh, and the lifeguards need to have a serious word with the idiot who paddled over the shoulder right in front of you!

To add your own videos, you need to use the Picture symbol (confusing, isn't it!)

But I think the size limit is 100MB.

It's easier to create a YouTube channel and upload them there, then share the link here.

Unfortunately that link appears to be to your OneDrive account which I can't view ☹️

I'd be happy if I could actually even get on a wave like that (probably not ever going to happen ☹️)

But the thing that stood out IMO was that you got projected out onto the shoulder when you could have got in at least another top turn if you'd got more on rail.

But your friends were impressed and I'm sure everyone else here is too 🤙

You get the principle when you say a wave is moving forwards.

If you plot your surfing path in 3D, it's not a simple parabola as you're being pushed forward at the same time.

A curved bowl face replicates this more realistically. 👍

Look at the Browse/ OMBE Insiders/ Feedback on your surfing replays of the old Live Chats.

Often Clay talks about the "strike zone", ie the part of the wave that you're going to be engaging with next.

When you take off, you want to look down the line to see what the wave is going to do, but not looking so far that you're not aware of the immediate surroundings.