Rohan

Posted

22 Jul 04:45

I haven't been surfing for a few months now... Last surf was in April - I know... Sacrilege! Most of the weekends that I went to Jbay the waves just weren't there, or the wind was blowing them flat, or there was a competition on... It has been as if the universe has been against me... I even went to Victoria Bay thinking I would at least get a surf in only to find out there was a friggen competition on... TWICE!! I couldn't believe it... I went to seal point in Cape St Francis and guess what... There were no waves at Seals Point and a competition at the beach break... My surf stoke has been dwindling big time!

Last week was the Corona Open in JBay... Unfortunately due to family commitments we were away the first weekend and the waves were so good we missed the opening rounds, the elimination rounds and the round of 16 as well... And of course Jordy didn't make the finals so we didn't even get to see him surf live either... Fortunately we were there for the finals and man!! What a day.... Waves were epic, surfing was epic, and I have never seen so many people on the beach in front of Super Tubes as we did that day... Was EPIC and seriously one for the books. Made up for all the days we missed!

I did manage to get one surf sesh in on a not so crowded day so that was really fantastic... Not that my surfing was great... Well actually, I was surfing ok considering I haven't surfed in so long... Only issue is that I only rode one wave in 2 hours... Not because of the crowd, but because I just could not get on a wave at all... I was struggling big time... I am so unfit and just didn't have the paddle power at all and the Dalhberg requires fitness and paddle power so I struggled and my body felt it for 4 days after... lol. 

Anyways, in an attempt to revive the stoke, I am going to post a few older vids that I have not shared yet... So to start it off, this was of a wave from my last session in April. Struggling to get it loaded here so I have to link it to YouTube. 

My struggles... The top turn twist... Seems like I get to a point in the twist and then stop... As if in my mind that position is the final place. Much easier to get technique right-ish when it's calm and smooth... I was surfing Tubes this day, which is very fast and over shallow reef... I notice in high risk moments I still revert to the most engrained habits... which usually are the bad ones... Never the less... Feedback from other perspectives is always helpful and welcome! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRujfkyPJxk

2

21 Jul 02:30

Hi Ory... Apart from the valid tips already mentioned, I think you did really well. If you had kept a straighter line to the beach, you would have stayed in the "pocket" - even though it is quite small - and would have had a longer ride... you went to far off to the shoulder as the wave started reforming slightly

21 Jul 02:23

It truly is a mental thing... Well done for reframing and getting out there!

20 Jul 23:24

Ah man... Totally feel your frustrations Graham. Realized early on that a massive part of surfing is managing expectations and disappointments. Some days easier than others of course. Surf reports and webcams are so deceiving at times as well... I think at time is will actually be better to not look at the reports and just arrive with the quiver packed in the car. 

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03 May 01:46

I have also heard that dark colour are perhaps not the best because of the sun and the heat... Not sure if it was Clayton that said that though because from what I have seen... He uses colours on his boards quite a bit... Granted they not super dark colours.

22 Apr 14:54

I would say go more vertical with a tighter bottom turn... the board is quite far from you when you try to come back around. You loose control of it and your bodies forward momentum.  

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14 Mar 02:43

I went down the same path and realised a cruiser is not really the ideal board - and on top of that it is waay short... Never mind though because you can change the trucks... Or get some waterborne surf skate adapters. I recommend the surf and rail fin system.

Did your hands slip off the board? Ouch!

14 Mar 02:22

Add a bit more compression and extension.

14 Mar 02:18

I would say more lean on the bottom turn, more nose to beach, and look back at the foam. You leave the best part of the wave behind.

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