Man! Feeling really defeated. I wish I had footage of my surfing to share but I went for a solo surf yesterday. I would put myself somewhere around Line 1-Line 2. I find on bigger (read as 2-4ft+) days I can’t even catch a wave or pop up. I feel like I stress paddle, expend all my energy only to get left behind by the wave or go over the falls. Placement on the wave is almost certainly an issue.

Can anyone give me details or point me to tutorials on where/when on the wave I should be popping up? I think I may be way late to try and pop up and wind up riding the back of the wave towards the falls. Should I just try popping up as soon as I feel any lift in the tail and notice the nose start to point down the face? I wish there was someone posting POV with a mouthguard GoPro AND drone so I could see when they are popping

Help!

So first ride on my new board 4 litres down and a lot thinner then what I normally ride. Trying to get my left arm actually involved in my surfing as normally it tends just to do nothing at all. Getting there I think.

Struggling with take off on boxy waves with no defined shoulder. Last sesh everyone struggled in general but the few successful rides were by people angling at takeoff. I was either getting pitched off mid-wave or shooting to the flats and trying to stand up there. Can you tie together the principles of, fastest path, taking off in bottom 1/3 of wave and angling in general but in boxy waves in particular.

Day 8:

Another pre work bowl session...just working on all the things, but mostly focusing on the compression extension and listening/feeling the rhythm of the transition. Also, a small 7 sec clip of me from this weekend, as a tiny spec in the ocean, trying to apply that bowl practice to what we consider a wave here in South Carolina.

Don't expect any feedback on the surfing cause unless you zoom in, which I'm not sure you can do, can't even see me and it's a Short clip on a little closeout so nothing great to see. Only included it to show that I am attempting to take my dry land practice into the ocean with me when I go.

Every day just gonna keep grinding...

Month of Surf Training in September:

Decided I am going to dedicate myself to 1 month of surfing/ surf training everyday for at least 30 mins a day.

If there are waves ill surf even if it is just catching white water on a foamie. I'll practice my pop ups and weight shifting and how that effects board movement.

If no waves I will paddle up and down the beach for 30 mins. Work on paddle endurance and low back strength.

If it's inclement weather and I can't get in the water I will surf skate, weight train, stretch, bosu mind surf while watching a John john video.

30 days of training or working towards my goal of improving every day.

I'll come back on October 1st and let every one know how I progressed.

My current baseline: I can pop up with little to no issues. I'm comfortable in the ocean regardless of wave size. I can get down the line with minor compression and extension.

Goals:

Paddle endurance

Working towards line 3 surfing (compression/ extension, arm control, utilizing more than the bottom of the wave.)

Doing a turn! Any turn will do to start....

Really want to get cutbacks down.

Let's see how it goes!

Is the old OMBE app still working?

When I go into it I get a message telling me to update it, but according to Google play store, I am up to date... 🤔

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DHOLDRhJh2f/?igsh=NGUycGJkNHB3cjZp what happens when you skate in the flats

Had a lekker surf on the 1st, best way to start the Spring time and new adventures. Was planning on doing the Make a Wave challenge again, I unfortunately dont have the time right now. Just too many things going on and I have been a bit spread to thin. Anyways, here's three of the better waves of the day.

Started doing some Leo moves exercises two weeks ago and it is already making a difference. Wasn't struggling with my pop up like in the previous video... Changes the game quite a bit.

Hey All! Went to the wave in Bristol last week and did a few advanced lefts - definitely happy with my progress but the start of the wave always looks a bit slow! Any tips would be great! Thank you!!