Jeff

As I was falling. The was sucked up on the bank really fast and threw me and the board down together. 

Posted

20 Jul 16:00

Recently I made (well, didn't make) a takeoff on a heavy wave. The wave was not even head high but had a lot of power on a shallow bank. One of my quad fins went through my calf muscle to the bone. 

I should have stuck to my single fins lol.

Anyway, I've since put those proteck fins in that board. They're hard plastic with a soft rubbery edge. They perform well enough for me. 

Thought I'd post this as a reminder to remember to take the edge off sharp fins, beware of your fins when falling, and consider safer fins as an option.

2

20 Jul 15:52

Looks ok. To improve, try more aggressive turns up and down the wave. However, at some point of life you need to be happy with what you're doing (which you probably are) and forget about stressing over more performance. 

20 Jul 15:48

That particular wave looks a bit fat and weak and it's difficult to extract speed and power from such a wave. You have the basics, more experience will naturally lead to better surfing.

25 May 08:21

Why is moving from moderate to high so hard 😞

One thing from OMBE I've learned is not to rush anything.....even watching the 'boring' intro videos teaches patience and attention to detail and sets the right mind-frame. Similarly, with my surfing now, i spend more time looking and feeling, instead of that mad dash down the line. cheers OMBE!