Man! Feeling really defeated. I wish I had footage of my surfing to share but I went for a solo surf yesterday. I would put myself somewhere around Line 1-Line 2. I find on bigger (read as 2-4ft+) days I can’t even catch a wave or pop up. I feel like I stress paddle, expend all my energy only to get left behind by the wave or go over the falls. Placement on the wave is almost certainly an issue.
Can anyone give me details or point me to tutorials on where/when on the wave I should be popping up? I think I may be way late to try and pop up and wind up riding the back of the wave towards the falls. Should I just try popping up as soon as I feel any lift in the tail and notice the nose start to point down the face? I wish there was someone posting POV with a mouthguard GoPro AND drone so I could see when they are popping
Help!