Brian Park it all starts with awareness of what the wave is doing. There is no single right answer that will help you on every wave. Here's a clip of Kelly surfing J-Bay, famously a very fast wave. Look at the wave that starts at the 36 second mark and how he starts to change his lines depending on if the wave is running quickly or slowing down. If the wave runs, you may need to run. If the wave breaks more slowly you can more easily do top to bottom surfing. Etc.
Commented on Short video of me doing my daily morn...
24 Aug 19:30
I bought myself a three euro selfie stick that also works as a tripod at Action. Has helped me to get more reliable footage.