Don't take this the wrong way but wondering how big that board is compared to your own size? You might be better of on a somewhat larger and more stable board for a bit.
It would give you an easier time in getting to your feet and thus prevent getting caught by the section.
Commented on Does anyone remember that pyramid of ...
Jun 22 at 09:07 PM
And of course I found it 30 seconds later. This is what I was referring to: https://train.ombe.co/programs/surf-progression-why-its-taking-you-so-long-3a33ab