What G said. You are over doing the compression and extension and it will make the board feel wobbly. You are also not really going any higher. Draw a chalk line and match your energy and technique to the line you need/want to take
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04 Aug 07:17
Pools are fantastic fun so practice and play ie you get the same waves as the best surfer in the session. The ocean is a different story. You need to work on patterns to identify good vs bad and the skills to earn them.