Big News for the OMBE Community!
Weâre sharing some changes happening here at OMBE: Ant is stepping back from co-hosting with Clayton due to a shift in direction and a packed calendar.Â
As many of you know, Ant is always on the go, sharing his passion as a public speaker and mindset coach, helping people level up in all things personal development. Heâs got some exciting projects on the horizon!
Weâll miss his energy, humour, and insights that have been a huge part of OMBE over the past 4 years.Â
Antâs contributions have been nothing short of epic, and weâre so grateful for the incredible vibe heâs brought to the team as weâve grown OMBE to where it is today.
If youâd like to keep up with what Antâs doing, be sure to connect with him on Instagram đ @anthonylayespeaks (https://www.instagram.com/anthonylayespeaks) and YouTube đ @anthonylaye (https://youtube.com/@anthonylaye) where heâll be sharing all the good stuff and keeping the inspiration flowing.
Weâll
miss having him here at OMBE, but weâre pumped to see what he accomplishes next!
Clayton Nienaber
Posted
Nov 16 at 06:19 AM
Posted
Nov 07 at 12:28 PM
Project: Speed in Surfing
Introduction
Speed is the lifeblood of surfing. It allows surfers to navigate the waveâs face, perform maneuvers, and harness the waveâs energy to keep their ride alive. However, speed in surfing isnât simply about going fast; itâs about understanding when and how to generate speed, how to maintain it, and how to avoid common pitfalls that can slow you down.
Drawing analogies from sprinting, we can break down the process of speed in surfing into phases that include acceleration, maintaining speed, and controlling movement across the wave face. Letâs dive into the mechanics of speed in surfing and explore the interplay between gravity, wave energy, and body movement.
Phase 1: Acceleration at Takeoff
Just as a sprinter launches off the starting blocks with a burst of acceleration, a surferâs initial takeoff is all about harnessing gravity to propel down the wave. This initial drop provides a burst of speed, giving the surfer momentum to work with.
⢠Gravityâs Role: Gravity accelerates the surfer down the face of the wave. This force is strongest during takeoff, where it pulls the surfer downward, giving them their first taste of speed.
⢠Compression: At this stage, surfers should stay low, compressing their body to stabilize and control this acceleration. This low posture maximizes stability and uses the downward pull of gravity to gain momentum.
Coaching Point: âCompress to accelerate.â Emphasize the importance of staying low to harness the waveâs downward energy during takeoff. This is your burst phase, similar to a sprinter pushing out of the blocks.
Phase 2: Transitioning to Speed
Once the surfer is moving along the face of the wave, the objective shifts from acceleration to maintaining speed. This phase is about transitioning from a low, compressed stance to a taller, more extended posture that lightens the load on the board.
⢠Standing Taller: Just as a sprinter stands upright to maintain a sustainable stride, a surfer should extend after takeoff. This reduces drag, allowing for smooth, horizontal movement across the wave.
⢠Avoiding the Sinking Effect: Staying low too long causes the surfer to âsink,â or feel heavy on the board. This effect drags the surfer toward the waveâs base, causing them to lose speed. By extending, they reduce the downward force of gravity and remain light on the board.
Coaching Point: âExtend to sustain.â After the initial drop, encourage surfers to stand taller to avoid dragging down. This keeps them agile, reduces resistance, and allows them to flow with the waveâs forward energy.
Phase 3: Timing with the Waveâs Energy
To sustain speed, surfers need to move up and down the wave face in rhythm with the waveâs natural energy. This phase involves coordinating compression and extension to maintain a dynamic, flowing movement.
⢠Waveâs Orbital Motion: Water moves in a circular, or orbital, motion as it creates the wave, similar to a sine wave with an âeven upâ and âeven down.â Surfing in harmony with this orbital motion is like moving in a rolling pattern, where you create speed through rhythmic compression and extension.
⢠Moving Up the Wave for Speed: After the drop, surfers need to return to the top of the wave to build potential energy. This motion allows them to âresetâ their speed, as descending from a higher position on the wave face regenerates forward momentum.
Coaching Point: âRide with rhythm.â Encourage surfers to think of their movements as a dance with the waveâs natural motion, going up and down to continually harness the waveâs energy and sustain speed.
Phase 4: Counteracting Gravity with Extension
Gravity, while useful for initial acceleration, is a force that surfers need to counteract to avoid losing speed. Extension becomes a powerful tool to lift the surfer above gravityâs pull, allowing them to stay high on the wave face.
⢠Upward Lift: Just as a sprinter lifts with each stride to counteract gravity, a surfer uses extension as an upward force to keep from sinking. By extending in sync with the waveâs upward draw, surfers align with the waveâs natural energy to stay above gravityâs slowing effect.
⢠Using the Rail for Lift: When surfers press down on their toe edge and engage the rail, they tap into the waveâs buoyancy. This buoyancy allows the board to âpopâ back up, lifting them and maintaining speed. Timed with an upward extension, this technique helps surfers stay in control, light, and high on the wave face.
Coaching Point: âExtend with the waveâs lift.â By timing extensions with the waveâs upward pull, surfers counteract gravity, maintaining a smooth, fast ride.
Phase 5: The Balance Between Acceleration and Maintaining Speed
A crucial concept in surfing is distinguishing between acceleration and speed. Many surfers mistake initial acceleration for sustainable speed, but theyâre two distinct phases. Acceleration is the burst of speed you get when gravity pulls you down the wave face, while maintaining speed is about managing movement across the wave.
⢠Controlled Extension vs. Compression: Compression should be minimal after takeoff to avoid sinking. Instead, the focus shifts to controlled extensions that maintain a steady flow across the wave face. This dynamic balance keeps you moving forward without losing height or momentum.
⢠Avoiding Over-Compression: Excessive compression can work against you by enhancing gravityâs pull, which will drag you lower on the wave. Remember, the waveâs energy gives you the forward motion, so the goal is to maintain that speed, not over-compress.
Coaching Point: âUse the waveâs energy, donât force it.â Instead of over-compressing, focus on subtle movements that align with the waveâs energy. This keeps your ride fluid and efficient, letting the wave power your speed.
Key Insights Summary
1\. Harness Gravity Initially, Then Counteract It: Use gravity for acceleration on takeoff but shift to counteracting it by extending and moving high on the wave.
2\. Extend to Stay Light and Fluid: Transitioning from compression to extension reduces drag, allowing you to sustain speed without sinking.
3\. Ride with the Waveâs Rhythm: Embrace the waveâs orbital motion by moving up and down in a rolling flow, syncing with the waveâs natural energy.
4\. Precision in Compression and Extension: Minimal compression after takeoff and timed extension maintain a controlled, fast, and balanced ride.
5\. The Waveâs Lift Is Your Ally: Use the waveâs upward pull to counteract gravity, keeping your ride smooth, light, and fast.
Conclusion
Speed in surfing is a dynamic interplay of forces, timing, and rhythm. By understanding how to harness gravity for acceleration, extend to counteract it, and align with the waveâs orbital energy, surfers can unlock a faster, more controlled, and exhilarating ride. This journey isnât about brute force or pushing for speed; itâs about syncing with the waveâs natural energy, moving with fluid precision, and knowing when to harness and when to release.
Posted
Oct 27 at 08:33 AM
Riding the Edge: Surfing, Space, and the Secrets of the Universe
Alright, letâs get a little cosmic, but keep it groundedâlike when youâre out in the lineup, waiting for that next set. We all know that feeling of dropping into a wave, riding the energy, and trying to hold the perfect line. Itâs a dance between speed, balance, and the raw power of the ocean. But what if I told you that this dance has a lot in common with how things move in space, like a spacecraft navigating around a planet? Letâs talk about Rocheâs limit, Hohmannâs principle, and why surfing might just be the most cosmic sport on Earth.
First, imagine a surfer dropping into a big, hollow waveâa wave with a powerful, swirling vortex inside the barrel. That vortex is like a planetâs gravity. Itâs pulling everything towards it, trying to suck you in. Now, in space, thereâs something called the Roche limitâthe point where a moon gets too close to a planet and gets torn apart by its gravity, scattering into rings like the ones around Saturn. In surfing, your Roche limit is when youâre riding the tube, and the waveâs power is trying to drag you down. Stay just outside that edge, and youâre flying; cross the line, and youâre wiping out in a foamy mess.
But hereâs where it gets interesting: To ride that line and not get pulled in, you need to use the waveâs energy, not fight against it. Think about how a spacecraft moves around a planet. Thereâs a concept called Hohmannâs principle, which says the most efficient way to change orbits around a planet is to use the planetâs gravity, letting it slingshot you around. In surfing, itâs the same ideaâyou want to harness the waveâs energy to move efficiently, to keep that smooth flow through the barrel without losing control.
Now, letâs break that down. The vortex of a wave is like gravityâitâs the pull, the raw force thatâs always there. But thereâs another type of energy at play: think of it like magnetism. This is where the Coanda effect comes inâthe way fluid (like water) flows over a surface, sticking to it and creating lift. For surfers, this means when youâre on the right line, the waveâs energy wraps around your board, helping you stay lifted in the pocket of the tube. Itâs like being magnetically drawn along the waveâs curve, with just enough lift to keep you from getting sucked under.
To ride that perfect line, you need to balance all of these forcesâgravity, lift, magnetismâworking with the wave instead of against it. Youâre threading the needle between the waveâs pull and its push, the way a spacecraft uses a planetâs gravity to sling it around. And just like space travel, surfing is all about efficiency. Find that sweet spot, and youâll glide effortlessly through the barrel, feeling like youâre bending the rules of nature itself. But push too far, and youâre swallowed up, sent tumbling back into the chaos.
Itâs one of the reasons why surfing is so mind-bendingly difficultâbecause itâs not just about strength or speed. Itâs about understanding how to tap into the waveâs energy, how to read the way it moves, and finding that perfect balance. Itâs a small-scale version of what NASA deals with when they launch satellites or send rovers to Mars, but the challenge is just as real. And when youâre out there, feeling the pull of the ocean and the lift of your board, youâre playing with the same forces that shape the universe.
So next time youâre in the tube, think of yourself as that spacecraft, navigating the edge of a planetâs gravity. Youâre riding the Roche limit, using the waveâs energy to take the most efficient path through the barrel. Itâs a cosmic dance, and youâre right in the middle of it. And that, my friends, is why surfing is not just a sportâitâs a window into something way bigger, a chance to ride the energy of the universe itself.
Keep chasing that line, stay curious, and see how close you can get to the edge without getting pulled in. Thatâs where the magic happens. đđ
Posted
Oct 12 at 01:42 PM
The Science and Flow of Surfing: Tapping Into the Oceanâs Secrets for Maximum Efficiency
Surfing is more than just standing on a boardâitâs a dance with natural forces, where physics, hydrodynamics, and your intuition come together. When youâre truly connected with the oceanâs energy, each move becomes effortless and the ride transforms into a perfect harmony of speed, flow, and rhythm.
From understanding how waves move to mastering the intricacies of turning, surfing is all about knowing how to use the energy available to you. To truly grasp this, weâll explore the principles that make surfing efficient and fluidâfrom gravity to the Hohmann principle, from the CoandÄ effect to resonance. By the end, youâll not only understand surfing but also how to flow with the ocean as if you were part of it.
1. The Waveâs Energy: Riding the Horizontal Vortex
Imagine a vortex of water spiraling down a drain. The water closest to the center spins faster, carrying more energy, while the water farther out moves slower and with less power. Now, turn that vortex on its sideâthatâs essentially how a wave moves: a spiraling body of energy pushing forward.
⢠Low entropy (order): Near the center of this sideways vortex is the pocketâthe waveâs steepest, fastest, and most powerful part. This is a zone of low entropy, where the energy is highly organized and concentrated.
⢠High entropy (chaos): As you drift farther from the pocket toward the shoulder, the energy becomes more scattered and less useful for surfing. The water is more chaotic, and you lose momentum.
To maximize your ride, you want to stay in the low-entropy zoneâclose to the pocket, where the waveâs energy is organized and powerful, allowing you to harness its full potential.
2. Finding the Fastest Line: The Brachistochrone Curve and Gravityâs Pull
Once youâve caught a wave, the key to building speed is finding the most efficient line down the face. This is where the brachistochrone curve comes into playâthe fastest path between two points is not a straight line, but a curve that lets gravity work for you.
⢠Dropping in: As you drop down the face of the wave, you want to curve your path, following a line that maximizes your acceleration. By letting gravity pull you down while the waveâs forward energy pushes you, you can build speed effortlessly.
⢠Speed through efficiency: The brachistochrone curve allows you to combine the waveâs power with gravityâs pull, resulting in a fast, smooth ride that prepares you for the bottom turn.
3. The Bottom Turn: The CoandÄ Effect and Rail Control
The bottom turn is your opportunity to use the waveâs energy to set up for the next maneuver, and itâs where control and precision are key. When you lean into the bottom turn and set your rail into the water, youâre tapping into the CoandÄ effect, which is what allows you to maintain grip and avoid sliding out.
⢠Setting the rail: As you engage the rail, the CoandÄ effect causes the water to cling to the curved surface of your board, creating a low-pressure zone that locks your board into the wave. This gives you hold and stability during the turn, even at high speeds.
⢠Leaning vs. flat: If you attempt a bottom turn without engaging the railâkeeping the board flatâyouâre relying only on the fins for control. The risk here is that you can easily overpower the fin, causing the board to slide out. The rail gives you that extra grip, ensuring your turn is both tight and controlled.
4. The Hohmann Principle: Moving Effortlessly and Efficiently
As you come out of the bottom turn, hereâs where the Hohmann principle kicks in. In orbital mechanics, the Hohmann principle describes the most energy-efficient path between two points, and the same principle applies to surfing. The idea is to move in the most efficient line possible, using the least amount of energy while maintaining speed and flow.
⢠Maintaining speed: After completing your bottom turn, you want to project up the wave face in the most efficient way possible. The key here is to keep your movement smooth and curved, ensuring that youâre harnessing the waveâs energy without scrubbing off speed.
⢠Using the waveâs energy: Just like a spacecraft taking the optimal route between two orbits, you want to transition from the bottom turn to the top of the wave without wasting energy. The curve of your trajectory should be fluid, allowing gravity and the waveâs energy to continue working in your favor, so youâre not expending extra effort to maintain speed.
5. The Top Turn: Turning with Power and Precision
As you reach the top of the wave after coming out of the bottom turn, your board is moving fast, and youâre about to engage in a top turn. This is where understanding the mechanics of the boardâs movement and controlling your twist becomes crucial.
⢠Twisting the board: At the top of the wave, a vertical ascent means youâre going to collide with the lip if you donât pivot the board. Here, you execute a twist rather than a lean. A twist allows you to rotate the board sharply on its tail, changing direction without losing too much speed.
⢠The CoandÄ effect in action: Even during the top turn, the CoandÄ effect plays a role. As you twist the board, water flows past the widest part of the board and creates a slight push inward, further assisting the board in completing the turn. This natural adhesion of the water to the board allows you to return smoothly to the wave face without scrubbing off speed or losing control.
⢠Speed and power in the pocket: After the top turn, youâre either going to re-enter the pocket (the low-entropy zone with concentrated energy) or race down the line depending on the wave. By choosing the right path, you maximize your speed while conserving energy.
6. Resonance: Moving in Sync with the Waveâs Rhythm
To truly surf efficiently, you need to sync your movements with the waveâs natural oscillations. This is where resonance comes into play: when your body movements align with the waveâs up-and-down rhythm, youâre not just riding the waveâyouâre amplifying its energy.
⢠Compression and extension: As the wave lifts you up, you should extend your body (stand taller) to lighten your load and flow with the upward energy. When the wave falls, you compress (lower your center of gravity) to harness the downward force and speed up.
⢠Staying in rhythm: By matching your movements to the waveâs natural oscillation, youâre moving in harmony with the waveâs energy. This allows you to maintain speed effortlessly, increasing your flow and control.
7. Cognitive Efficiency and Flow: Automaticity in Surfing
At the highest level, surfing becomes automatic. The best surfers donât think about every movementâtheyâve trained their bodies to react instinctively to the wave. This concept is known as automaticity.
⢠Pattern recognition: By recognizing the patterns in how a wave forms and moves, your brain automatically knows what to do without conscious effort. This frees up mental space to focus on reading the wave and anticipating its next move.
⢠Flow state: When youâre in sync with the wave and your movements become automatic, you enter a flow stateâthat sweet spot where everything feels effortless, and youâre riding the wave as if time has slowed down. This is the ultimate goal of surfing: to be in such perfect harmony with the ocean that every move feels instinctual.
Conclusion: Effortless, Efficient, and Fluid Surfing
Surfing isnât just about catching wavesâitâs about learning to move with the oceanâs energy in the most efficient, fluid way possible. By understanding the Hohmann principle and using it to navigate from the bottom to the top of the wave, by mastering the CoandÄ effect to control your board, and by syncing your bodyâs movements with the waveâs natural rhythm, you become a part of the oceanâs flow.
The true art of surfing lies in understanding the science that underpins it. When you align your movements with the waveâs energy, follow the fastest line, and make the most efficient turns, youâre not just riding a waveâyouâre dancing with the ocean, moving as one with its power and flow.
Posted
Oct 07 at 07:34 AM
1\. The Fastest Line: The Brachistochrone Curve
What it is:
The Brachistochrone curve is a mathematical concept that shows the fastest path between two points isnât always a straight lineâitâs a curve. In surfing, this means the fastest and most efficient way to ride a wave isnât simply going straight down the face; itâs following a curved line that takes full advantage of gravity and the waveâs energy.
Surfing takeaway:
When you follow this natural curve, youâre letting gravity pull you down the wave while gaining speed, just like a rollercoaster. The trick is to use the waveâs energy to find the path that makes you go faster with less effort. This is what we call the fastest line, and itâs all about flowing with the waveâs shape.
Why it matters:
By following the waveâs natural curve, youâll be able to surf faster and with more control. Itâs the difference between fighting the wave and flowing with it.
2\. The Vortex: Where the Waveâs Energy Lives
What it is:
When a wave breaks, it creates a vortexâa spiraling motion of water, like a whirlpool. The closer you are to this vortex, the more energy you can tap into. The vortex is the waveâs power source, where all the energy is concentrated.
Surfing takeaway:
Think of the waveâs energy like the center of a whirlpool: the closer you are to it, the more power you can use to stay fast and in control. Riding near the pocket of the wave (close to the vortex) keeps you connected to this energy, allowing you to surf longer and make sharper turns.
Why it matters:
Staying near the waveâs vortex helps you maintain speed and power throughout the ride. If you stray too far from it, you lose the waveâs energy, which means you slow down or even fall off the wave.
3\. The Coanda Effect: Water Sticking to the Surfboard
What it is:
The Coanda effect is a principle in fluid dynamics that explains how water (or any fluid) likes to stick to curved surfaces. In surfing, this means that when you put your surfboard on rail (tilting the board so one side digs into the water), the water sticks to the side of your board, allowing it to flow smoothly along the wave.
Surfing takeaway:
When your boardâs edge (the rail) stays connected to the water, you reduce drag and tap into the waveâs energy more efficiently. This is what helps you make smooth turns and maintain speed while riding the waveâs face.
Why it matters:
Using the Coanda effect allows you to stick to the wave, ride it more efficiently, and make sharper, cleaner turns with less resistance. Itâs what helps you stay in control, even when youâre surfing fast.
4\. The Hohmann Transfer Orbit: Energy-Efficient Trajectories
What it is:
In space, a Hohmann transfer orbit is the most energy-efficient way to move between two orbits. In surfing, we can think of this as a metaphor for moving between two key parts of the wave: the bottom and the top. To surf efficiently, you need to move between these two parts using as little energy as possible while still gaining speed.
Surfing takeaway:
Picture surfing in a figure-eight pattern. When you turn at the bottom of the wave, you gain lift (like a slingshot) to help you prepare for the next move. Then, when you turn off the top, you use gravity to pull you back down with speed. These movements keep you in sync with the wave, letting the waveâs energy do most of the work.
Why it matters:
By transitioning smoothly between the bottom turn and top turn, you can maintain flow and stay in the waveâs most powerful zones. This helps you borrow energy from the wave to keep your ride going, without wasting your own energy.
How These Principles Work Together
⢠The Brachistochrone curve shows you the fastest path to take on a waveânot straight down, but following the waveâs natural curve.
⢠The vortex is where the waveâs energy is strongest, and staying close to it helps you tap into that power.
⢠The Coanda effect keeps water flowing smoothly along your surfboard, letting you ride the waveâs energy with less resistance and sharper turns.
⢠The Hohmann transfer orbit concept helps you move efficiently between the bottom and top of the wave, using gravity and lift to maintain speed.
When you combine these principles, youâre not just riding the waveâyouâre working with the waveâs energy in the most efficient, powerful way possible. This means faster rides, smoother turns, and using the waveâs natural forces to your advantage.
Why Itâs Important for Surfers
Understanding these concepts helps you realize that surfing isnât just about physical strength or forcing your way through the wave. Itâs about learning how to tap into the energy already present in the wave and using it to your advantage. The more you understand the wave, the more you can flow with it, making your surfing feel effortless.
This is what OMBEâs 4Line Program is all about: teaching you to harness the waveâs power through smart, efficient movement. Itâs surfing with nature, not against itâusing science to become a better, faster, and more confident surfer.
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Aug 20 at 09:23 AM
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Apr 03 at 10:22 AM
The OMBE bowl in Nicaragua is ready. Iâll be heading over there next week to host x 3 retreats. So excited for this one!!