At the end of the wave when you think it’s over you relax into the best posture and stance ie relaxed and taller. Prior to that you lock up into a survival stance , low and heavy. Fix this and everything else gets better
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26 Nov 08:18
Feel the wave lift the tail. That’s the indicator. When it “talks” to you pick the best line where you board fits as well as gives you time to glide in and stand. Looking down is time poor and the result of a shitty line choice