You are trying to survive the ride and not fall so your body is locked up. Relax stand taller and look around so you know where you are on the wave. Next is feel what the wave is offering and move with it.

I was only able to view it once. You stand on top of the board which makes it hard for the board to do anything. You need to go rail to rail. That means toe edge to heel edge or moving your head from rail to rail like you would on a bike to initiate turning.

Damn. Sorry to hear it mate!

I love this

Nice one. It’s daunting but you showed up! Energy takes the path of least resistance. Do less. Less compression as it makes you heavier. Don’t rush as you need to travel distance while turning. Find the flow and rhythm of the turns. It’s not effort but efficiency that’s the key. Good luck

Each wave is different and it changes with period , direction, wind , swell sizes etc. Look at the best surfers in the lineup and pay attention to positioning and technique. Then try to copy.

Take off and shout Wahoo as loud as you can to tell yourself you are having fun. Then do nothing but feel the wave. You body will respond well when you are in play mode

Jeremy you are rolling into the bowl through the flats so you can’t do any compression or extensions there. Do smaller incremental runs and slowly work up to it. The movement comes from the legs. At the moment there is not much movement here.

You compressed at the top making your self heavy and this limits your ability to twist and ride down the wave again. Think of doing a take off where the picture was taken. To nail the take off you would look and try see a path downward but you don’t look so there is missing information and therefore you contract expecting failure

Hi Dylan

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