Mark Hind

Yep it was Aragum bay! Everyone super friendly, but it’s just super competitive and I don’t think you will really get a wave on the shoulder there unless you are on a longboard. That clip is actually at a spot called ‘lighthouse’. That spot was great maybe only 5 people in the water, everyone taking turns 😃

Yeah I should of been more extended on that cutback and I should have held it longer!

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Posted

15 Jul 17:07

00:10

Hey, I thought I’d post here about my recent trip to Sri Lanka. First off, I loved it. I met some great people and scored some great waves.

Normally, I spend most of my time surfing in wave pools in Bristol, in the UK, so what I found really hard was actually the line-up in the ocean — and most of that difficulty was just in my head. My mind was getting in the way.

To explain this better: I was surfing the best point break in Sri Lanka, and because of that, the line-up was rammed — maybe 50 people in the water, all sorts of abilities, people dropping in all over the place — but very long rides.

For the first session, I kind of just sat on the shoulder a bit and watched. I could see who was getting the most waves and where the take-off point was. It was a fairly small area, but I just didn’t have the confidence to sit there. I was so bothered about the people around me, and whether I was even good enough to be in that spot.

Anyway, even after knowing all this and having a good talk with myself in my room the next day, I still couldn’t find the confidence to sit in the right place in the line-up — even though I knew what I should be doing. At that point, I was catching about one wave per hour!

It was only when I found the ‘Surf Psychology’ course on the OMBE app that I was able to reframe what was going on in my mind. The next day, I sat in the take-off zone and caught a load of waves. I just had to get my mind out of the way.

Below is a clip of my surfing in Sri Lanka. It’s not my best surfing, and there’s plenty wrong with my technique on this wave — but that’s not really the point of this post. It’s more about understanding that sometimes, it’s what’s going on in your mind that matters more than how your body moves

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23 Jun 16:12

At the wave in Bristol, my personal opinion is that the litres of your board don’t really make much difference in terms of catching the wave. It’s not like in the ocean where those extra litres might help you paddle into the wave early. At the wave in Bristol, it’s a small take off point, it’s more about positioning then paddling really. The extra litres may help in numbing some of the mistakes that your style might be making. But it didn’t look to bad on the clip. I would just take the 7 foot board. The closer to the wall the better take off you will have at the wave. You just need to angle the board. Hope this helps.

12 Jun 17:03

I agree with Graham, I think your front arm is just getting in the way. But I would suggest you actually lift both arms to get more height (at the moment you are only lifting the back arm). Extend, when you want to go up, lift both arms, look where you want to go, kiss the knees, pass the coffee with the back hand, move the front hand out of the way. Twist the wrists for for rotation, compress to go back down the ramp

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Ok, it 6 feet 4 inches, 19 1/4 wide. It’s an old board so it’s a bit yellow and looking at it there is some damage to the tail. But I think you could get this repaired by a shaper for about £40, or do it yourself with some sun cure. The board bag is an ocean earth day bag

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