Looks like a new series coming from the OMBE-verse on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/bFU3OPqBVq8?si=2hxB8Xwy8ecRsLEv
Part one here, more to follow, I think
Looks like a new series coming from the OMBE-verse on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/bFU3OPqBVq8?si=2hxB8Xwy8ecRsLEv
Part one here, more to follow, I think
Hey guys, Nico (ex-ombe photog) here!
I’m heading to Bali on the 14th for a couple of weeks. This is my first time in Bali, so I was wondering if there is someone here that can guide me as to where to go surfing, and hat to do and not to do and general stuff in Bali?? I would appreciate it.
Cheers!
Hope everyones having a great weekend!
Just sharing how stoked I am that my first custom midlength has finally arrived. Tried it today and I really struggle at bending when I rebound off the foam after a front side top turn.
For reference: this is a 7’6
Does anyone ride a midlength here?
A Clayton signature board at Matanivusi beach eco resort in Fiji.
Another one.... for Clayton Nienaber less arm throwing per your instructions. Did a little with my normal left arm dangling by my side, and a little two arm handle bar action. Legs were definitely burning today after leg day in gym last night and 10 or so 1 min laps around the bowl.
Also for Michiel van Gerven
Slowed way down and tried to show what happens if I attempt to shorten the turn in the back right hand corner. It gives me that awkward straight at the hip angle which Is where I've busted my own arse a few times attempting it.
And I do realize that going over that hip in the last few seconds looks like I'm way off balance that is simply cause I was worried about eating it there. Last time I landed on my hip and couldn't walk normal for 2 weeks and there may be waves in a few days from hurricane Milton so not trying to get hurt before a chance to surf.
Junk swells?
Is it certain that any time there are overlapping swells, like shown below right now, https://www.surfline.com/surf-report/ho-okipa/5842041f4e65fad6a7708de8, the surf is super tricky and junky? Yesterday was like this, and getting in the right position was darn near impossible. Waves would not break or break abruptly.
I wish I had used a huge board and got chip shots so that I was up and riding before the waves broke!
FRUSTRATED!
Pauwela, Maui, HI (187)
8:56am Oct 10, 2024
Wave Height
5.2ft, 12s, NNW 331º
Individual Swells
2.5ft, 12s, NNW 330º
2.5ft, 9s, N 350º
2.5ft, 7s, NE 35º
Humming fins....?
I bought myself a little birthday present, e.g. a new board (you have to spoil yourself sometimes!). It's a Roger Hinds Tamago 7.4ft which I surfed today with a True Ames Greenough 4A 7" single fin and True Ames side fins. I had a really fun session but the fins are humming when the boards get's up to speed......?
What makes the fins hummmm.... do I need to do something about it and if so how can I prevent it.
The boards is currently nicknamed buzz Lightning but I am hoping we can change that name...
1\. The Fastest Line: The Brachistochrone Curve
What it is:
The Brachistochrone curve is a mathematical concept that shows the fastest path between two points isn’t always a straight line—it’s a curve. In surfing, this means the fastest and most efficient way to ride a wave isn’t simply going straight down the face; it’s following a curved line that takes full advantage of gravity and the wave’s energy.
Surfing takeaway:
When you follow this natural curve, you’re letting gravity pull you down the wave while gaining speed, just like a rollercoaster. The trick is to use the wave’s energy to find the path that makes you go faster with less effort. This is what we call the fastest line, and it’s all about flowing with the wave’s shape.
Why it matters:
By following the wave’s natural curve, you’ll be able to surf faster and with more control. It’s the difference between fighting the wave and flowing with it.
2\. The Vortex: Where the Wave’s Energy Lives
What it is:
When a wave breaks, it creates a vortex—a spiraling motion of water, like a whirlpool. The closer you are to this vortex, the more energy you can tap into. The vortex is the wave’s power source, where all the energy is concentrated.
Surfing takeaway:
Think of the wave’s energy like the center of a whirlpool: the closer you are to it, the more power you can use to stay fast and in control. Riding near the pocket of the wave (close to the vortex) keeps you connected to this energy, allowing you to surf longer and make sharper turns.
Why it matters:
Staying near the wave’s vortex helps you maintain speed and power throughout the ride. If you stray too far from it, you lose the wave’s energy, which means you slow down or even fall off the wave.
3\. The Coanda Effect: Water Sticking to the Surfboard
What it is:
The Coanda effect is a principle in fluid dynamics that explains how water (or any fluid) likes to stick to curved surfaces. In surfing, this means that when you put your surfboard on rail (tilting the board so one side digs into the water), the water sticks to the side of your board, allowing it to flow smoothly along the wave.
Surfing takeaway:
When your board’s edge (the rail) stays connected to the water, you reduce drag and tap into the wave’s energy more efficiently. This is what helps you make smooth turns and maintain speed while riding the wave’s face.
Why it matters:
Using the Coanda effect allows you to stick to the wave, ride it more efficiently, and make sharper, cleaner turns with less resistance. It’s what helps you stay in control, even when you’re surfing fast.
4\. The Hohmann Transfer Orbit: Energy-Efficient Trajectories
What it is:
In space, a Hohmann transfer orbit is the most energy-efficient way to move between two orbits. In surfing, we can think of this as a metaphor for moving between two key parts of the wave: the bottom and the top. To surf efficiently, you need to move between these two parts using as little energy as possible while still gaining speed.
Surfing takeaway:
Picture surfing in a figure-eight pattern. When you turn at the bottom of the wave, you gain lift (like a slingshot) to help you prepare for the next move. Then, when you turn off the top, you use gravity to pull you back down with speed. These movements keep you in sync with the wave, letting the wave’s energy do most of the work.
Why it matters:
By transitioning smoothly between the bottom turn and top turn, you can maintain flow and stay in the wave’s most powerful zones. This helps you borrow energy from the wave to keep your ride going, without wasting your own energy.
How These Principles Work Together
• The Brachistochrone curve shows you the fastest path to take on a wave—not straight down, but following the wave’s natural curve.
• The vortex is where the wave’s energy is strongest, and staying close to it helps you tap into that power.
• The Coanda effect keeps water flowing smoothly along your surfboard, letting you ride the wave’s energy with less resistance and sharper turns.
• The Hohmann transfer orbit concept helps you move efficiently between the bottom and top of the wave, using gravity and lift to maintain speed.
When you combine these principles, you’re not just riding the wave—you’re working with the wave’s energy in the most efficient, powerful way possible. This means faster rides, smoother turns, and using the wave’s natural forces to your advantage.
Why It’s Important for Surfers
Understanding these concepts helps you realize that surfing isn’t just about physical strength or forcing your way through the wave. It’s about learning how to tap into the energy already present in the wave and using it to your advantage. The more you understand the wave, the more you can flow with it, making your surfing feel effortless.
This is what OMBE’s 4Line Program is all about: teaching you to harness the wave’s power through smart, efficient movement. It’s surfing with nature, not against it—using science to become a better, faster, and more confident surfer.
Great story. Around April of this year, I told my hubby that I’m giving myself until August to get on a FISH. Of course, he thought I was crazy being that I just got back to surfing in April after a 5 year break,
1\\. Last Thursday, I received a notification that I won a Mick Fanning (shark bite not included) Fish through a random drawing!! 🥳🎉👏
2\\. Last night, our neighbor came by to give me his fish. He’s moving out of state and he thought I would love it!! 🥳🎉👏
I’ve been comparing all different fishes, makes and sizes. Now I have a 5’10” and and 7’10” fishes… the decision has been made for me!! I can’t wait to get on these boards!! 🥳🥳
MORAL OF THE STORY? I should have wished for a million bucks!! 😀😀
What are you currently riding? What do you wish to be riding in the near future? And in the distant future?
I’ve streamlined my quiver to include only the boards I love! If I hate it, it’s got to go!
I currently have
2 Walden 9’2” long boards
1 Bing Trimulux 9’2”
Meyerhoffer 8’8” (that hubby is embarrassed to be seen with me) 😂
And now the 2 fishes above.
My Bing is my all time favorite. It feels like it’s part of me. I hope to add a Bing noserider or Takayama In the Pink soon.