Any advice on what you should be doing to generate speed to get out of the foam when you get behind it. I do “scoots” and pray, but have no idea what the physics supports as an approach. The sooner you catch back up the more time you have to play.
The video is from last week, before it all clicked. Hoping to get some next time I paddle out in front of a Surfline cam. When I was doing my top turn I would bring it back around and drop nearly straight back down the face, but I should have been wrapping it back around, pointing my nose into the foamball and hitting it there to reset my line. Once that clicked, it was so much easier to be in position for the next section cause when you turn back around after hitting the foam ball you’re already in the pocket. Thank y’all for repeatedly pointing it out to me.
