My suggestion is to land / position your front foot closer to your inside rail on take off so as to engage the front one third inside rail of your board. At the moment your front foot is closer to the outside rail and that seems to be putting you on your back foot and outside rail.
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Commented on Beginner first time doing wave pool c...
08 Dec 08:04
Your hands were gripping the rails of the board. That created a wobble, which caused you to squat to try to overcome the wobble. Move your hands under your lower ribs and the wobble will disappear. With the wobble gone you will be able to relax and stand taller.