Looks like you might be trying to muscle it a bit.
I'd love for someone to explain exactly why you fell back at the end of that wave. That happens to me pretty often and I see it happen to a lot of surfers going for a turn at the end of a wave. Idk if it's too late to go for that turn or if it's technique related, but drives me crazy when it happens to me.
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22 Nov 06:32
Clayton Nienaber Thanks. I noticed last time it happened to me that I was looking down the line as I was falling, but it happened so fast I wasn't sure if that was the cause or just my upper body trying to counter the fall.
The whole time I am surfing I thinking about looking back toward the foam, so it's hard to believe I still forget to when it counts.