How I feel (hanging out with my family excepted of course :-)
Ian Warren
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May 11 at 08:16 AM
So true. Graham Marsden.
I would go one further and apply this idea to the session itself. So many people sit out the back waiting for the perfect bowly wave, letting every sub-standard wave pass them by.
I find that I consistently underestimate the opportunities available on a wave. A good way to combat this is: I force myself to catch the first 10 waves that come my way, no matter what.
Yes I end up sitting on the inside and wearing the sets on the head. But once I get into this rhythm, I can double or triple the amount of actual surfing I do in a session, especially when it’s crowded (which is basically every surf where I live).