There's some extension and compression going on but I would recommend also twisting at the top of the wave. Meaning, turn your upper body to face down the wave again to drop back in and gain new speed.
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Replied on What is the best training to improve ...
22 Nov 05:41
Technique. The top of that turn should be a twist. But as Clayton would say, if the twist is broken it defaults to a lean. Hence the falling backwards. Done it plenty of times myself. The solution is to twist your body (and get your left arm out of the way to do that). And point your board back down the wave. Ideally look back at the foam.
I’ve gotten this wrong a lot of times myself. As others have pointed out sharing is a good way to fix this. You’ll learn very quickly that falling because you forget to twist hurts. Ask me how I know…