Graham Marsden

Portsmouth, United Kingdom

Posted

Aug 24 at 03:01 AM

This is something that's only obliquely surfing related, however I thought people might be interested (it's a bit of a long story, but stick with it 🙂 )

Part 1: When I was surfing at Croyde last week, I managed to flatten the battery on my car fob (I'd lain on it in the Aquapac inside my wetsuit) and had all sorts of problems getting into the car.

So I went to a local supermarket to see if they carried spare batteries. They didn't, but a bloke behind the counter said "I'm a nice guy, I think I've got one in my car, hang on..."

A few minutes later he comes back with the battery, so I say "What do I owe you?"

He says "Don't worry about it."

So I said "Ok, how about I give some money to the RNLI?"

"Sure," he says.

(The RNLI is the Royal National Lifeboat Institution whose volunteers are present on Croyde Beach during the daytime in the summer to help surfers and bathers.)

So, no problems, I make a note to do this...

Part 2: Yesterday, on X/Twitter, someone made an obscure and arcane reference in a reply. I happened to recognise what they were talking about and made a joking response in a similar vein.

To my amazement they then said "I'd made myself a deal that if anyone got one of my references, I'd donate $100 to their favourite (genuine) charity."

"Seriously?!"

"Yes."

"Ok, give to the RNLI!"

So, because a random guy did a stranger a favour, the UK's water safety charity is now $100 better off!

AWESOME! 🤙

1

Aug 22 at 09:33 AM

Glad to hear you're getting back into surfing and it sounds like you're a lucky bugger living where you do!

Personally I prefer epoxy boards because they're lighter and easier to carry and paddle.

PU boards tend to be cheaper, however, if that's a determining factor.

As I understand things, more volume makes a board easier to paddle, but more length helps you catch smaller waves.

Don't forget that you can rent boards at The Wave, or at many breaks, so why not talk to the shops and try a few to see how you get on.

Hope this helps.

Aug 22 at 03:52 AM

Nice and smooth, but I agree with Pete, you need to use the arms to point up to the lip, that way you will start skating (and, hopefully, surfing) more Top to Bottom.

Aug 22 at 03:50 AM

It's a long road, but it's worth it when that light bulb goes off and something just clicks! 🤙

Aug 22 at 03:48 AM

Glad you made it here at last and great to meet you at Croyde 👍

Aug 17 at 03:21 AM

Maria Molè I arrived last Friday and I'm here until Monday morning.

I'm actually using my 4/3 wetsuit as it's the only one I own and it's a good all round suit whether the water is 17-18 degrees as it is now, or with boots and gloves and a hood with a built in rashie if it's 6 degrees!

Tomorrow morning at Saunton (next beach along) looks good for some smaller and more manageable surf 🤞

Reply

Aug 17 at 02:22 AM

Things have improved somewhat, eg "kiss the knees" suddenly clicked which was good.

Other things not so much, I went out at Croyde today when it was running about 4' or more, but I couldn't get the hang of outside, too big and too much power, but on the inside it was just closing out all the time and I gave up after about half an hour (and getting rinsed a couple of times ☹️ )

Aug 10 at 01:30 AM

Stian jorde Welcome to the OMBE family 🙂

The Oreo technique can be used on smaller waves (I surf a lot of crap, mushy beach breaks) the important thing is to get the positioning right, you need to get really close to the peak where the water is drawing up.

If you're too far out on the shoulder, unless you're on a Longboard you won't get enough lift to start the glide.

PS, sorry, I've never used a step up board, so I can't help you there.

Reply

Aug 08 at 04:57 AM

Those are the sort of conditions I surf in most of the time! 🙁

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Aug 07 at 08:55 PM

Jerry Hansen We really need some video as it could be a bunch of things.