When you're coming up, you end up with your hips high and your knees pointing in different directions.
Try lying on the floor, look at the wall in front of you, then just stand up and walk towards it.
You should find that your knees automatically point forwards, so practice that while thinking about doing it on your board.
(And the Lifeguards really should have a word with the idiots paddling across the shoulder!)
Replied on Here’s a great example of me missing ...
10 Oct 01:09
Maria Molè I had to watch the video repeatedly until I finally realised what the problem was with the wave!
It looks like he's in the right place, but then it flattens out and breaks the other side!