Ok, the conditions don't look particularly great as the waves are closing out pretty quickly and I think that's probably what's making you rush out onto the shoulder because you want to try to get as long a ride as possible before it dumps.
But maybe you could go more nose to the beach so you can put in a tighter bottom turn and then try to get to the lip before twisting back to the foam instead?
Commented on Looking for feedback. Was not working...
02 Feb 03:58
Nice take off and walk up, but then you seem to be riding back foot heavy as the nose of the board is way up in the air.
This slows you down and you get caught by the lip.
If you bring your coffee cup arm up and forward so you stack on the front foot you'd be able to get more twist on the bottom turn and then lift the coffee to the lip 👍