March. Where are you based. A trip to the ombe surf lab would help sort out a lot of what you are experiencing!

On point as usual G

Look back at the foam. You race way to far out onto the shoulder. You should have done the cut back on the first pump instead of where you felt safe

You are in survival mode and the line you take and you body language show this.

Change your line first off. Reset your mind to intentionally taking the line then relax and enjoy it

You had plenty of space but tried to do a fast pivot and lost speed. Look at where you want to go and then hold and wait for the magic.

Graham is on the money

So fun

Try be lighter off the bottom and lift when the wave lifts. The turn is good but try rebound offering the bottom of the board to the foam instead of the rail (flat) this way the wave will redirect the board.

Make it ridiculous and funny