You are in survival mode and the line you take and you body language show this.

Change your line first off. Reset your mind to intentionally taking the line then relax and enjoy it

You had plenty of space but tried to do a fast pivot and lost speed. Look at where you want to go and then hold and wait for the magic.

Graham is on the money

So fun

Try be lighter off the bottom and lift when the wave lifts. The turn is good but try rebound offering the bottom of the board to the foam instead of the rail (flat) this way the wave will redirect the board.

Make it ridiculous and funny

Looks good. Try rotating hips into a twist and maintain the pressure vs all back foot. The back foot stomp is good for vertical pivot but your still a little off that more at 2 pm on my clock

You want to bank higher off the top of the foam to kind of that take off speed aging from the section. Any lower and you either have your legs swiped out or you just get stranded