Hey Michiel van Gerven I remember you asking for some tips on hitting the lip late, here is an example of a succesful attempt I managed yesterday 😁

The lip is on it's way down here so my timing was still ok and the wave power wasn't huge so it worked out.

FIRST TRY....Not really but....COUNT IT!

Yes, I realize it ain't pretty. On the backhand my arm isn't where I want, it doesn't look all smooth and flowing BUT a WIN is a WIN!
Made quite a few of them today. Now I can dial it in and get it more stylish. Keep that right arm from swinging in front of me on the backhand, maybe work on carving it out a little longer around the corner, get my left arm up higher and kiss the knees more, all the good things will come now that the first step is done.

Thanks to all the OMBE members for the help and pointers. Totally stoked to be Over the first hurdle.

YEEEWWWW!

Feedback please 🙏🏼 I've been working on my popup using feedback from the community.

Also, I'm working on my Achilles and can't my back foot to lay down more than that. Suggestions?

The Eddie had been called on for Sunday!

Anyone know who'll be streaming it?

Big News for the OMBE Community!
We’re sharing some changes happening here at OMBE: Ant is stepping back from co-hosting with Clayton due to a shift in direction and a packed calendar. 
As many of you know, Ant is always on the go, sharing his passion as a public speaker and mindset coach, helping people level up in all things personal development. He’s got some exciting projects on the horizon!
We’ll miss his energy, humour, and insights that have been a huge part of OMBE over the past 4 years. 
Ant’s contributions have been nothing short of epic, and we’re so grateful for the incredible vibe he’s brought to the team as we’ve grown OMBE to where it is today.
If you’d like to keep up with what Ant’s doing, be sure to connect with him on Instagram 👉 @anthonylayespeaks (https://www.instagram.com/anthonylayespeaks) and YouTube 👉 @anthonylaye (https://youtube.com/@anthonylaye) where he’ll be sharing all the good stuff and keeping the inspiration flowing.
We’ll
miss having him here at OMBE, but we’re pumped to see what he accomplishes next!

Hey OMBE crew, first time poster and new member.
I have just got into surfing at the vintage age of 45.
Working on my paddle fitness and basic board control.
Want to know if there is any value in paddling in my pool at home(attached to a tether)?
Are there any other drills I can practice in the pool at home between beach visits?
Thanks, Matt

Merry Christmas all you wonderful people!!

Our latest YT vid is live https://youtu.be/AbNWT_3Wtto?si=DPPJGF8ryc64MdpP

Progression in surfing is challenging because it requires a fundamental shift in how we understand balance, speed, and control—concepts that often conflict with our instincts and prior experiences. Let’s break it down:

1. The Balance Misconception

Most beginners think of surfing as primarily a balancing act, much like standing still on solid ground. However, surfing introduces a dynamic environment where balance is inseparable from acceleration and thrust. Newton’s first law comes into play: when the wave propels the surfboard forward, inertia pulls the body backward, leading to a fall. True balance in surfing isn’t static—it’s dynamic and tied to understanding the energy of the wave.

Analogy: Riding a Bicycle

Just like riding a bicycle, balance improves with speed. When you’re stationary or moving slowly on a bike, staying upright is difficult. But as speed increases, momentum stabilizes the ride, and you can relax into balance. Similarly, in surfing, speed generated by the wave creates a stable platform, allowing the surfer to relax and flow with the motion.

2. The Need for Speed and Control

In surfing, learning to harness speed from the wave is critical. Without speed, every movement feels forced, and small mistakes are magnified. But with speed, the wave does the work, and the surfer can begin to flow. However, speed introduces its own complexities—like timing, positioning, and line selection—which require practice to master.

Comparison to Vehicles:

• Car: Like driving a car, a beginner surfer learns the basics—getting moving, turning gently, and staying upright. But in a car, sharp turns at high speeds can lead to flipping, just as abrupt movements on a surfboard can cause wipeouts.
• Motorbike: A motorbike adds complexity. To accelerate effectively, riders lean forward to reduce resistance, much like surfers must lean into the wave’s energy. Motorbikes are also more agile, allowing sharper turns—similar to how more advanced surfers take tighter, faster lines on waves.
• Airplane: An airplane represents the ultimate freedom in movement, with no friction or terrain limitations. To achieve lift, it must accelerate enough to reduce drag and use its design to glide effortlessly. This parallels advanced surfing, where understanding lift, drag, and energy allows surfers to access the wave’s full potential.

3. Limitations of Equipment and Lines

Each surfboard acts as a mode of transport, with its own set of limitations:
• A longboard is like a car—stable, smooth, but limited in agility.
• A shortboard is like a motorbike—more dynamic and responsive, but requiring more skill.
• An advanced board with high rocker and thin rails is like an airplane—allowing for three-dimensional, free-flowing movement on the wave.

Beginners often don’t realize that their equipment limits the lines they can take, which in turn limits their understanding of what is possible. This creates a cycle of frustration, where they “don’t know what they don’t know.”

4. The Role of Coaching and Equipment Progression

Coaching breaks this cycle by exposing surfers to new ways of thinking, feeling, and moving. Changing the board or approach can expose surfers to previously unknown sensations, teaching them what they didn’t know they were missing. However, to progress, surfers must let go of preconceived notions—emptying the glass—and approach the lesson with an open mind and curiosity.

The Learner’s Mindset

Progression becomes fun when surfers embrace the unknown and commit to discovery. Each new sensation or breakthrough unlocks deeper levels of understanding and connection with the wave. The journey is as much about unlearning rigid patterns as it is about mastering new ones.

5. Why It’s Hard: The Learning Curve

Surfing progression is tough because it requires the simultaneous mastery of multiple layers:
1. Body Awareness: Adapting to dynamic movement rather than static balance.
2. Wave Reading: Recognizing the wave’s energy and learning to position and time movements.
3. Equipment Adaptation: Transitioning from stable to more responsive boards.
4. Mindset: Letting go of fear, embracing failure, and trusting the process.

Each level builds on the last, and the limits imposed by the surfer’s mindset, board, and understanding create bottlenecks that only exposure, practice, and guidance can overcome.

Final Thought

Surfing is not just about standing on a board—it’s about learning to harness energy, adapt to a dynamic environment, and move with freedom. Each step in the journey—like moving from a car to a motorbike to an airplane—offers new challenges but also greater possibilities. With speed, agility, and lift, the surfer moves closer to effortless flow, where the wave’s energy becomes an extension of their own.

First day in weeks it's not raining or freezing and the bowl is dry... Just in time to test out the new shred stick my daughter's got me for Christmas.
Back to working on my figure 8s, haven't skated in a while+ new board so just getting used to it.
Do have to say though for my fellow taller OMBE crew with a wider stance: I already love this new board! Nose kick kept my front foot locked it, felt like I had a normal stance for my size for once (I am 6'3"). Felt like I was riding a cruisey mid-length.

Board specs:
Powell Peralta JM Duran Slidwinder model
Carver C5 trucks
Bones red bearing
P.P. Dragon formula 93a 60mm wheels

Totally stoked on the board and how fast and stable it felt.
Definitely could have made that last attempt if I didn't fear the roll in lip so much. Can't wait to get back at it. Yeeeewww