24 sec wave seems longer. Lol
Clayton Nienaber Anthony Laye
I think you need to make a date for the first live of September soon if you are going on a trip?
Day one of the make a wave challenge and well... I did not get to surf today. Work stuff... Been a month of work stuff putting everything else on the back seat so I have been rather unprepared and a lot to catch up with.
Lucky the make a wave challenge allows for any surf related activity in the water, and out so I figured I would at least prepare for the month a bit. So I got the old... old...oooooold wax off the board and made a few reminders for the month to come. I don't remember ever seeing this surfboard so clean and shiny before... I didn't want to put back in the sock 😂
As for the stickers, arrows are to remind me of feet positioning, the other a coffee cup of course and another to get it up with my hips forward.
On the bright side, the forecast was not surfable for today anyways, after this week, the weekend free up again.
OMBE Surf Travel Schedule 2024
[Full] Mentawais Boat Trip - Feb 17th to March 13th
[Full] Nicaragua Surf Trip - Apr 12th to May 4th
[Full] Mentawais Boat Trip - Sep 12th to Oct 5th
More coming for Nicaragua in 2024
The Trip Details:
Week 1: For Lower to High Intermediate Surfers - May 20th to 24th
Week 2: For Intermediate to Advanced Surfers - May 27th to 31st
Caught some decent sized hurricane swell in Wrightsville Beach today on a brand new Machado Cado at 38L... big step down for me. Smallest volume I've ever ridden, caught a decent number of waves in a 3 hr session, definitely improving. Don't surf as often as I would like due to lack of waves in myrtle beach area most times, but I've been surf skating the local bowl at least 10-15 mins a day between dropping my kids off at school and being at work myself. The lessons and program and the surf skating tutorials are helping make me that small % better every time I go out. For sure need to work on my paddle endurance and low back endurance though... 3 hrs is gonna have my old man bones aching tomorrow. Today was a good day... Passing on the stoke... thanks for all that you guys do if it can help me it can help anyone. Yeeewwwwww!
Hi there everyone,
I’m currently looking to buy a board and wanted some advice on choosing a PU vs an EPS board if anyone has experience riding both. I surfed as a teen/young adult, but it’s been 15 years since I surfed with any regularity. I’ve recently moved and live near a wave pool (Bristol, UK) and also relatively near some UK beachies. I’ve had a couple of sessions at the wave pool to get back into it and absolutely loving it. I’m definitely at low/improving intermediate level at the moment, and my surfing fitness (paddle stamina etc.) leaves a lot to be desired! So my main priority is ease of wave catching right now to aid fast progression and match my (not great) fitness levels. Most of the articles from the surf media online seem to say that because an EPS is lighter and therefore has more bouyancy, it planes and paddles better and is therefore easier to catch waves. However, I then just watched a video from T&C surfboards master shaper Glenn Pang and he said very confidently that PU boards catch waves easier because the extra weight means the board builds more momentum as it glides down the wave. Based on what Clay teaches about gravity, and not paddling, being the critical factor in catching a wave, this makes total sense. However, almost everything else contradicts this, so wanted to know if anyone has any thoughts and/or experience riding both constructions in similar shapes who can clarify.
Cheers, Jake
I can’t believe what’s coming to TX!!! 6 more wave pools. And one of them is Surf Lakes. We’ve been to the Waco pool a few times. TX is a 3.5 hr destination for us. Love it!!! So often I think, what new place should we travel to for surfing? Then I see the flight times… 13 hrs plus? Yikes! So many destinations are off limits for me due to time needed on a plane. Wave pools, to me, are a nice mini surf trip. Pack it all in on one weekend getaway. Especially when the idea of surfing NY in the winter sets in!
https://surfparkcentral.com/the-new-north-shore-this-future-texas-roadtrip-could-bring-you-to-seven-different-surf-parks/
This is something that's only obliquely surfing related, however I thought people might be interested (it's a bit of a long story, but stick with it 🙂 )
Part 1: When I was surfing at Croyde last week, I managed to flatten the battery on my car fob (I'd lain on it in the Aquapac inside my wetsuit) and had all sorts of problems getting into the car.
So I went to a local supermarket to see if they carried spare batteries. They didn't, but a bloke behind the counter said "I'm a nice guy, I think I've got one in my car, hang on..."
A few minutes later he comes back with the battery, so I say "What do I owe you?"
He says "Don't worry about it."
So I said "Ok, how about I give some money to the RNLI?"
"Sure," he says.
(The RNLI is the Royal National Lifeboat Institution whose volunteers are present on Croyde Beach during the daytime in the summer to help surfers and bathers.)
So, no problems, I make a note to do this...
Part 2: Yesterday, on X/Twitter, someone made an obscure and arcane reference in a reply. I happened to recognise what they were talking about and made a joking response in a similar vein.
To my amazement they then said "I'd made myself a deal that if anyone got one of my references, I'd donate $100 to their favourite (genuine) charity."
"Seriously?!"
"Yes."
"Ok, give to the RNLI!"
So, because a random guy did a stranger a favour, the UK's water safety charity is now $100 better off!
AWESOME! 🤙
Anyone ever feel like this (wait for it) after sneaking in a few waves when the report forecasted flat? Of course there’s audio, too.
Short video of me doing my daily morning bowl ride. I know the angle is horrible, unfortunately at that time in morning no one available to film me. I am going to try to get a better video for next month's live reviews, if I can get my wife to video me. It is a relatively small bowl with a decent hip on one side, just working on my stacking and compression/extension.
Criticism welcome. Thanks in advance... yeeewwww.