A kook here new to the community 😃 A question I'm dying to know: I wonder if in general most waves will give you time to glide before pop up?

When I surf bigger (4-6 ft) / more powerful wave, the moment wave approaches me, the water beneath me become very steep and I feel a strong power. I get panicked and want to standup but it's too difficult because of the steepness (I definitely looked at the bottom). I actually don't know if I have time to glide.

I wonder is that a sign of me sitting too deep, or it's natural that bigger / more powerful wave will give that feeling and I can glide and pop up even if the water beneath me seems steep? 

Much appreciated for anyone who could share their thoughts 🙏