Miles

Hobart, Australia

51yo. orthopedic surgeon. surfing off and since childhood. never achieved a level I’m happy with

14 Aug 19:21

Ok, I’m no expert.

But I reckon it would look cool if you let the energy of the wave continue to pull the board up the last bit to the lip after y you turn your head. ( basically as clay says, don’t rush)

Can turn head and look for the next line, but let the board keep going and finish the turn.

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Tried that.

Thanks Martin

What happens is I get stressed about catching the wave and falling. So focused on paddling and standing up, I forget there’s more to do. ( ie scum wave to be enjoyed)

I get tunnel vision, it’s almost like I don’t see anything. I think I’m looking at the nose of the board, worried it will catch, or a couple of feet to the side of the front of the board.

Talking through it, maybe I can try to focus on the upcoming wave riding and the line down the face, and trust that the paddle in and standing up will take care of itself………

A fun wave, not a scum wave

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