Libby Stano

Sydney, Australia

Hi Maria

Today, Sydney's new wave pool was opened up to some of its members for a trial run. 3 hours of waves.

I took two boards a 57ltr 5'10" Sub Xero (Epoxy) and a 28ltr 5'8" Xero (PU)

First session - The Cruiser Wave - I took out the Sub 0

It was manageable.  45 mins in,  the wave size was increased a little.

I swapped boards. It's the 4th time I have used the 0. Unreal. 

My paddling ability, no harder. Perhaps I paddle less. And I feel down in the water, not on top of it.

Clayton says to feel. On the 0 when I push my pelvic bone down, the board goes down.

The Oreo squeeze. So good, on one wave I only took two strokes.

It responded when I tried to compress & extend.  I was even able to give myself a pat on the back. (A rare thing for me)

Today I realised I will only use the bigger board on waves with a profile of about 45 degrees. Any steeper and I lose control of it or I nose dive

I'm only a beginner Maria, but go with your gut.

20 Apr 17:18

I have been the same works on land not in the water. I noticed during the demo's online when Clayton was on land in one video he was up on his finger tips and in another his fists. In the water it's different for him though because the board sinks or is falling away so he has more room to bring his knee straight up under him. The other thing I thought to try and might work eventually for me was to rise up onto my knees with most of my weight on the knee of my front leg and during the rise up start to bring the knee of the back leg through. It's a lot to think about at the stage I am at and it is far from perfected.

07 Apr 18:28

Come build one in my backyard

Commented on post was deleted

26 Mar 22:09

How depressing I’m not even a beginner. What comes before that kindergarten? But it is good to have a guide

I'm a beginner. I love small surf because I surf for fun. Scaring myself on big waves is not fun for me. But like Tony I often get frustrated with feeling like a sack of potatoes. The biggest thing I got out of this video was watching Yani ride top to bottom as I like Tony, tend to just ride across the face. Not that at my level I can do the turns Yani was doing. I can see how I can progress my turns rather than just attempting a little wiggle, running out of momentum and sinking into the white wash. Thanks a very informative video

Regards Libby

Reply

25 Feb 17:05

Hi I surf natural, I'm right handed but according my P/T and my Dad, I take the stance of a left handed boxer. As a kid on a skate board I could never push with my back foot while keeping my weight on my left leg. I'm transitioning from freeboarding. Surfing behind a boat. So being conscious of keeping my weight forward on my left leg is my biggest challenge. Nor can I ride a large non responsive board. If it doesn't move when I do, I just fall off. I'm not sure whether I have good or bad balance as a result. We all have our quirks.

I am wondering whether hyper mobility of the front hip when internally rotated could be advantages or not

To answer your question, I would have to explain to you my life experience and that would take an essay. I will have to think about how to answer you briefly. Thank you v much for responding and for your interest. Regards Libby

Posted

01 Feb 18:48

Is it possible that a person's board can have too much bouyancy for them? Because my gut is telling me I do. Despite being a Beg.

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