Libby Stano

Sydney, Australia

Maria Molè

I find I need to consciously squeeze my glutes to push my pubic bone into the surfboard. For a while I assumed by lifting my shoulders off the board, my pubic bone was automatically pushing down, that wasn't the case.

My lower back doesn't like going from full extention into flexion. Not quickly anyway. But again if the glutes are engaged my back doesn't feel so vulnerable, I feel more in control of the back leg coming up behind me as well.

I also do a lot of rolling, to loosen up my hips and back. Adapt the step up to suit you. Nobody knows you like you know you

Maria Molè Hi Maria, 

Sorry it's taken a couple of days to get back to you. Busy.

I still think your step up is good. Take a video from side on as well.

Send front on and side on to the community, see what others say.

Myself I would say slow it down or break it down even more.

Play with it. We are all different shapes and sizes. And I'm not talking weight here, more the differences in torso and leg length. If you have a long torso and short legs great, if you have a short torso and long legs maybe a little harder. I don't know this, I am just imagining it.

Clayton's method of getting up is the blue print, how best does it work for you

I find I need maximum height of my hips to get my back leg under me. So where do I need to place my hands to achieve this. It is a bit further back than in line with my chest.

 

Maria Molè I don't know about my leading leg not being my leading leg. On a surfboard it feels completely natural with left foot forward. On the surfskate completely wrong, but good to think about. The only thing I have been told I am a lefty with is my boxing stance. We are all just quirks of nature.

Yes I find going slow on land incredibly helpful. I heard another saying years ago "to go fast, you must row slow". Clayton just reiterated that for me.

When I watched your step up, other than the looking thing 👀 what were you unhappy with?

Kean Dereuck Oh terrific. I love Japan!

Reply

Maria Molè Hi Maria

The boat is easier. It generates the speed.

Transitioning from weight on back foot to front foot hard for me.

Don't know what my left leg has been doing all my life : free loading?

I do things in the gym that require me to put my weight on my left leg but coordination, balance, control while pushing a surf skate, very difficult and a bit scary.

I saw your Step Up. What aren't you happy about? Sure as beginners we have to try remember to look up but otherwise you looked really tidy.

Is your leg an issue? If so, it shouldn't be the joint but could definitely be muscle. 

I'm no expert, but for me, my body has been a work in progress for the last 13 years, improving posture, mobility, flexibility, strengthening. 

I don't think it is as easy for muscle to forget memory as it is for the mind😀 

23 Apr 13:40

I think you should relax😂 What an unreal ride, so much time to think about what you are doing, I'm coming over, where do you live?😀

Maria Molè Wow beautiful. I've never tried a long board.

We sound a little the same. I learnt to stand on a board being pulled by a boat. But I never transitioned so well from it, to surfing and never had any tuition.

Don't really know how I found OMBE actually, felt like it just appeared on my screen one day. 

I learnt so much after just one or two videos and Clayton seemed so authentic that I joined up.

Really lovely photo, and look forward to sharing some video footage soon.

Libby

Maria Molè Hi Maria 

What's the name of the wave pool you go to. I'd like to see the set up.

The biggest game changer for me was being able to do the Oreo Squeeze on my smaller board. Much less paddling effort required.

Would like to see some video's of myself as well.

I want to progress into the intermediate program but Clayton suggests it is good to have a visual of where I am at, when I begin.

Have to wait til the wave pool officially opens next month.

I will be posting some on this site so everyone can have their two bobs worth ($) of what I need to improve.

Would love to see any video's you have. Especially to compare the two different board volumes.

Don't forget it may take a bit of time to adjust to less volume so be kind to yourself and don't give up. Good luck and I hope to see some video from you soon. 

Graham Marsden Good to know thanks

Maria Molè Hi Maria happy to chat. 

Wave pool - chlorinated. You couldn't smell it at all, anywhere.

Was told ratio 2 parts C to 1 part water (litres?) currently. In Syd once open to public, regulations say 3/1. Said they will question that.

Bouyancy issue? Didn't notice any difference in the chlorine.

The 2 Oz pools - owned by URBNSURF.

The wave generating monster - made by Wave Garden (Italian?)

Even the smallest wave has a lot of power behind it. 

My dimensions : 156cm high, weight fluctuates 55-58kg most is carried in tailgate. Very little up top.  Agility, not bad for 57 years. Flexibility good.