Emily Brooks From what I've seen, it's a combination of speed and angle.

If I can get more speed, I'll be higher up the banking, but I need to get my head lower to help project the board up...

Maria Molè Fortunately it was only a split lip, no teeth or gum damage.

Hope you find some nice waves 🙂

Maria Molè Unfortunately it's a lot easier to read the waves when you're looking at a video and there's no pressure... 😕

I'm on the south coast of the UK, so we rarely get good waves, it's either flat or messy wind chop ☹️

Here's a pic of when I was surfing after the remnants of Hurricane Erin came through and I tried to Duck Dive a wave, but lost control of my board and caught it in my teeth! 😬

Someone else pointed out I was bleeding and I said "maybe, but there's waves to catch!" 🙃

I did get a few days at Croyde Bay in North Devon last month when it was good, but I won't be able to get back until next Easter when the campsite opens again.

PS and, yes, I talk about this side of the pond 🙂

Jason Daliessio Lie your board flat in the water and see how far above the surface the nose is.

Then get on the board and arch your back, first with your legs apart, then straight, then straight whilst pushing down with your thighs and see how the position of the nose changes.

Maria Molè I had to watch the video repeatedly until I finally realised what the problem was with the wave!

It looks like he's in the right place, but then it flattens out and breaks the other side!

When you're coming up, you end up with your hips high and your knees pointing in different directions.

Try lying on the floor, look at the wall in front of you, then just stand up and walk towards it.

You should find that your knees automatically point forwards, so practice that while thinking about doing it on your board.

(And the Lifeguards really should have a word with the idiots paddling across the shoulder!)

I'd say that the issue is that you're trying to kick as well, which is probably stopping you from pushing down on the tail.

Keeping your legs straight and together should improve things.

Although it probably also doesn't help that it appears to be a rather tricky wave, because it seems to have a peak on your right, which you're going for, but then it actually suddenly draws up and breaks on your left, leaving you on the shoulder ☹️

The first thing I see is that you're stress paddling, trying to force your way into the wave.

Try keeping your legs straight and your feet together so you can arch your back for the Oreo Biscuit technique (look in the surf start course section for more information)

Secondly, you're looking straight ahead and that's where you are going. This is OK for beginners in broken waves, but when you're catching unbroken waves, as you start to glide, you need to look down the line.

That turns your board along the face and engages the rail, plus it gives you more time because you're taking a longer (and less steep) path.

Jason Daliessio It's hard to tell from the video, but I think you may be rushing to get up because you're having the problem with catching the wave late.

Go to the Browse tab on the app and look at the Surf Start programme/ Land Drill: Walk to Pop-up.

Slow things down a little and you may find it easier "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast" 🙂

With the Oreo Biscuit technique, you don't need to paddle hard to catch the wave.

Try to position closer to the peak where the wave is drawing water up, keep your body and legs straight and arch your back so you push the tail down and it will be much easier.

If you take off on the shoulder, you won't catch the wave until it peaks, by which time it's often too late.