Clayton Nienaber You need to set up a timer in front of you ⏰️
(Or get the people you're paying for the platform to fix it so you can record for longer)
Portsmouth, United Kingdom
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27 Jan 08:30
Ok, the conditions don't look particularly great as the waves are closing out pretty quickly and I think that's probably what's making you rush out onto the shoulder because you want to try to get as long a ride as possible before it dumps.
But maybe you could go more nose to the beach so you can put in a tighter bottom turn and then try to get to the lip before twisting back to the foam instead?