Rohan

lol... Wasn't quite the size and as clean as I was hoping for. Did however paddle out and give it go. Was a friggen mission though. Peaks popping all over, strong currents one way, then the other, so a lot of paddling to stay in position, Michiel van Gerven yes, lots of current. Was also difficult to get on the wave - lack of fitness - and when I did get a bit of a ride it would fade and then I'd have to duck dive the big sets, many landing just in front of me... Did get some footage (4 waves) which I will upload soon... It is not great... My popups reveal how unfit I am... lol. All in all it was a great day and had fun never the less... Grateful to have been out there and get my nasal cavities flushed 😂

09 Aug 00:26

Keep up with BOSU training... Slow and easy with a focus on technique. The pooman stance is a lack of two main things... Coffee cup arm not forward, and your hips are pointing in the wrong direction. Roll your hips forward, and then push them forward, which will also put you on your front leg more, I like to imagine I am hanging ten, even though I am on a short board. Imagine you holding a stick infront of you, better yet... Hold a stick infront of you. That will help you get more square on.

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Will have a chat with it over the weekend... Test out my swell whispering 😜

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Mental game is alright. Biggest thing in my mind will be my fitness level. 😁

lol... I will speak very nicely to my camera lady for sure.😁 If the waves have size there will be less chance she is the water and more likely behind the camera.

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05 Aug 16:38

Oh My Hat! At last a weekend swell... I can't believe. Still early in the week and this could change. Still, way better than what has been.

Best I start doing some exercises this week in preparation...😂 This is in Jeffreys Bay for those wondering.

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05 Aug 16:35

Ocean first for me... That being said I am land locked and at the mercy of weekend swell... Which hasn't been great for a while now. A pool would definitely have come in handy. Pros and cons for both. If you have access to both... use them. Every session is a learning session.

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Posted

22 Jul 04:45

I haven't been surfing for a few months now... Last surf was in April - I know... Sacrilege! Most of the weekends that I went to Jbay the waves just weren't there, or the wind was blowing them flat, or there was a competition on... It has been as if the universe has been against me... I even went to Victoria Bay thinking I would at least get a surf in only to find out there was a friggen competition on... TWICE!! I couldn't believe it... I went to seal point in Cape St Francis and guess what... There were no waves at Seals Point and a competition at the beach break... My surf stoke has been dwindling big time!

Last week was the Corona Open in JBay... Unfortunately due to family commitments we were away the first weekend and the waves were so good we missed the opening rounds, the elimination rounds and the round of 16 as well... And of course Jordy didn't make the finals so we didn't even get to see him surf live either... Fortunately we were there for the finals and man!! What a day.... Waves were epic, surfing was epic, and I have never seen so many people on the beach in front of Super Tubes as we did that day... Was EPIC and seriously one for the books. Made up for all the days we missed!

I did manage to get one surf sesh in on a not so crowded day so that was really fantastic... Not that my surfing was great... Well actually, I was surfing ok considering I haven't surfed in so long... Only issue is that I only rode one wave in 2 hours... Not because of the crowd, but because I just could not get on a wave at all... I was struggling big time... I am so unfit and just didn't have the paddle power at all and the Dalhberg requires fitness and paddle power so I struggled and my body felt it for 4 days after... lol. 

Anyways, in an attempt to revive the stoke, I am going to post a few older vids that I have not shared yet... So to start it off, this was of a wave from my last session in April. Struggling to get it loaded here so I have to link it to YouTube. 

My struggles... The top turn twist... Seems like I get to a point in the twist and then stop... As if in my mind that position is the final place. Much easier to get technique right-ish when it's calm and smooth... I was surfing Tubes this day, which is very fast and over shallow reef... I notice in high risk moments I still revert to the most engrained habits... which usually are the bad ones... Never the less... Feedback from other perspectives is always helpful and welcome! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRujfkyPJxk

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21 Jul 02:30

Hi Ory... Apart from the valid tips already mentioned, I think you did really well. If you had kept a straighter line to the beach, you would have stayed in the "pocket" - even though it is quite small - and would have had a longer ride... you went to far off to the shoulder as the wave started reforming slightly