lol... Wasn't quite the size and as clean as I was hoping for. Did however paddle out and give it go. Was a friggen mission though. Peaks popping all over, strong currents one way, then the other, so a lot of paddling to stay in position, Michiel van Gerven yes, lots of current. Was also difficult to get on the wave - lack of fitness - and when I did get a bit of a ride it would fade and then I'd have to duck dive the big sets, many landing just in front of me... Did get some footage (4 waves) which I will upload soon... It is not great... My popups reveal how unfit I am... lol. All in all it was a great day and had fun never the less... Grateful to have been out there and get my nasal cavities flushed 😂

Emily Brooks 😂

Keep up with BOSU training... Slow and easy with a focus on technique. The pooman stance is a lack of two main things... Coffee cup arm not forward, and your hips are pointing in the wrong direction. Roll your hips forward, and then push them forward, which will also put you on your front leg more, I like to imagine I am hanging ten, even though I am on a short board. Imagine you holding a stick infront of you, better yet... Hold a stick infront of you. That will help you get more square on.

Will have a chat with it over the weekend... Test out my swell whispering 😜

Mental game is alright. Biggest thing in my mind will be my fitness level. 😁

lol... I will speak very nicely to my camera lady for sure.😁 If the waves have size there will be less chance she is the water and more likely behind the camera.

Ocean first for me... That being said I am land locked and at the mercy of weekend swell... Which hasn't been great for a while now. A pool would definitely have come in handy. Pros and cons for both. If you have access to both... use them. Every session is a learning session.

Hi Ory... Apart from the valid tips already mentioned, I think you did really well. If you had kept a straighter line to the beach, you would have stayed in the "pocket" - even though it is quite small - and would have had a longer ride... you went to far off to the shoulder as the wave started reforming slightly

It truly is a mental thing... Well done for reframing and getting out there!

Ah man... Totally feel your frustrations Graham. Realized early on that a massive part of surfing is managing expectations and disappointments. Some days easier than others of course. Surf reports and webcams are so deceiving at times as well... I think at time is will actually be better to not look at the reports and just arrive with the quiver packed in the car.