This is well worth a listen. Backs up so much of the Ombe teachings.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NGBxYWg-TCE

Riding the Edge: Surfing, Space, and the Secrets of the Universe

Alright, let’s get a little cosmic, but keep it grounded—like when you’re out in the lineup, waiting for that next set. We all know that feeling of dropping into a wave, riding the energy, and trying to hold the perfect line. It’s a dance between speed, balance, and the raw power of the ocean. But what if I told you that this dance has a lot in common with how things move in space, like a spacecraft navigating around a planet? Let’s talk about Roche’s limit, Hohmann’s principle, and why surfing might just be the most cosmic sport on Earth.

First, imagine a surfer dropping into a big, hollow wave—a wave with a powerful, swirling vortex inside the barrel. That vortex is like a planet’s gravity. It’s pulling everything towards it, trying to suck you in. Now, in space, there’s something called the Roche limit—the point where a moon gets too close to a planet and gets torn apart by its gravity, scattering into rings like the ones around Saturn. In surfing, your Roche limit is when you’re riding the tube, and the wave’s power is trying to drag you down. Stay just outside that edge, and you’re flying; cross the line, and you’re wiping out in a foamy mess.

But here’s where it gets interesting: To ride that line and not get pulled in, you need to use the wave’s energy, not fight against it. Think about how a spacecraft moves around a planet. There’s a concept called Hohmann’s principle, which says the most efficient way to change orbits around a planet is to use the planet’s gravity, letting it slingshot you around. In surfing, it’s the same idea—you want to harness the wave’s energy to move efficiently, to keep that smooth flow through the barrel without losing control.

Now, let’s break that down. The vortex of a wave is like gravity—it’s the pull, the raw force that’s always there. But there’s another type of energy at play: think of it like magnetism. This is where the Coanda effect comes in—the way fluid (like water) flows over a surface, sticking to it and creating lift. For surfers, this means when you’re on the right line, the wave’s energy wraps around your board, helping you stay lifted in the pocket of the tube. It’s like being magnetically drawn along the wave’s curve, with just enough lift to keep you from getting sucked under.

To ride that perfect line, you need to balance all of these forces—gravity, lift, magnetism—working with the wave instead of against it. You’re threading the needle between the wave’s pull and its push, the way a spacecraft uses a planet’s gravity to sling it around. And just like space travel, surfing is all about efficiency. Find that sweet spot, and you’ll glide effortlessly through the barrel, feeling like you’re bending the rules of nature itself. But push too far, and you’re swallowed up, sent tumbling back into the chaos.

It’s one of the reasons why surfing is so mind-bendingly difficult—because it’s not just about strength or speed. It’s about understanding how to tap into the wave’s energy, how to read the way it moves, and finding that perfect balance. It’s a small-scale version of what NASA deals with when they launch satellites or send rovers to Mars, but the challenge is just as real. And when you’re out there, feeling the pull of the ocean and the lift of your board, you’re playing with the same forces that shape the universe.

So next time you’re in the tube, think of yourself as that spacecraft, navigating the edge of a planet’s gravity. You’re riding the Roche limit, using the wave’s energy to take the most efficient path through the barrel. It’s a cosmic dance, and you’re right in the middle of it. And that, my friends, is why surfing is not just a sport—it’s a window into something way bigger, a chance to ride the energy of the universe itself.

Keep chasing that line, stay curious, and see how close you can get to the edge without getting pulled in. That’s where the magic happens. 🌊🚀

Here’s part 2 of Clay’s video, along with some exciting updates on what we’ve been working on lately!

We’d love to hear your thoughts on what content you’d like us to cover next. We’ve received some great feedback about adding more mobility-focused content, but we’re open to any other ideas you might have.

Also, we’re planning to expand our retreat destinations next year or 2025, can you share to us where your dream surf trip destination is?

Let us know in the comments section! Thank you!🙏🏾

Which board should I be looking to buy next?

I currently ride an 8 foot soft top and am able to ride down the line in both directions no problem just from angling my takeoff. Im looking into purchasing a midlength to start learning how trim properly and generate speed.

I’m 5’9” and weigh 195 lbs. Also I’m surfing in Florida where the waves are generally pretty mushy. Does anyone have any recommendations for either specific boards, or at least some dimensions that I should be looking at buying?

Thanks guys!

(Also I completeded the beginner pathway, which was awesome, and have moved on to the intermediate pathway. Which is another reason why i think its time to graduate from my soft top.)

Hi all!
I’ve finally started getting more video footage of myself surfing since the wave pool opened up. I have been working on trying to use the whole wave by going top to bottom but one thing I have noticed is that my right hand/coffee cup hand seems to be mostly stuck in place. Any advice?
Thanks,
Paul

Couple of turns from this morning.

Working on fixing my twist and passing the coffee cup at the top and the timing of the compression/ cardboard slide on the way down.

I feel like it's getting better... could just be fooling myself.

Surfing the advanced setting at the wave today. I often lose momentum. Looking at the photos I think I need to stack more over the front foot and get on rail. Any other input gratefully received

Trying to focus on breathing and coffee cup.
I know it’s flat surfing. Waves were knee to thigh high. Surfing on a DHD Phoenix 5’8” 31.5L
Any advice is welcome.