PART 1

This is powerful — you’re tapping into something fundamental yet overlooked. The idea that waves aren’t just chaotic energy but are following a natural rhythm — compression and extension — is key. Surfing isn’t just about chasing speed; it’s about moving in harmony with the wave’s pulse.

Here’s a refined, impactful narrative that reveals this hidden truth while tying it back to practical, actionable insights for surfers of all types:The Hidden Truth About Waves: Why Surfing Feels So Hard (And How to Fix It)

Most surfers paddle out with little understanding of what’s really happening beneath their feet. They see waves as random, unpredictable walls of water — something to conquer, outrun, or overpower. But here’s the hidden truth:

A wave is energy searching for release — and it always takes the path of least resistance.

When wind pushes down on the ocean’s surface, it disturbs the calm, creating pressure that compresses energy into the water. This compression squeezes energy downward — like packing a spring. Beneath the surface, that energy builds, looking for an escape. The easiest path? Upward, where the air is lighter and resistance is minimal.

This is the key to understanding wave energy — and why most surfers struggle.

The Wave’s Natural Rhythm: Compression and Extension

Just like breathing — where your lungs fill (compression) and empty (extension) — a wave pulses through this same rhythm. The compression phase occurs when energy is forced downward by wind pressure. The extension phase happens when that energy releases upward, lifting and expanding into the wave’s face.

And here’s the magic:The best surfers don’t just ride this — they move with it. • They compress as the wave compresses, syncing with gravity as energy is pushed down. • They extend as the wave extends, feeling the upward lift and gaining speed from the wave itself.

When you match your movements to this rhythm, surfing becomes effortless. You’re no longer fighting the wave — you’re riding its pulse.

Why Most Surfers Miss This

Many surfers chase speed by forcing movements — pumping aggressively, stomping on their board, or racing away from the power zone. But this breaks the rhythm. When you push hard during the wave’s extension phase, you cancel out the natural lift. Instead of accelerating, you stall.

On the flip side, if you hesitate when the wave is compressing, you lose momentum and get stuck in the pocket, missing the opportunity to gain speed.

The Key to Unlocking Effortless Flow

The secret lies in timing. By feeling the wave’s pulse — compressing when the wave compresses and extending when the wave releases — you can sync with its energy. • Imagine a swing — you gain height by timing your extension with the upward motion. • Picture a trampoline — you get the highest bounce by compressing with the downward force and extending with the upward release.

The wave works the same way. Compress too early or extend too late, and you miss the energy. But when you match your timing to the wave’s natural rhythm, you unlock effortless speed and flow.

Practical Insight: How to Sync With the Wave’s Pulse 1. Feel the Compression: As you drop into the wave, imagine you’re getting heavier. Sink into your stance, allowing gravity to pull you down with the wave’s energy. 2. Anticipate the Lift: As the wave’s energy begins to rise, extend upward — not by pushing hard, but by allowing your body to be lifted by the wave’s upward force. 3. Stay Light on Rail: By putting your board on rail, you break surface tension, reducing drag and allowing lift to flow through your board.

Why This Changes Everything

This isn’t just technique — it’s a mindset shift. Instead of fighting the wave, you’re feeling it. Instead of forcing speed, you’re letting the wave give you speed.

The surfers who seem to dance on the wave — the ones who make it look easy — aren’t stronger or faster. They’ve simply mastered this rhythm. They move with the wave, not against it.

Once you learn to feel this pulse — this natural heartbeat of the ocean — surfing will never be the same again.

Our latest YT has just dropped. https://youtu.be/uy3hrtBav7k?si=xyWrhfY5vcRu-Zme

Photo of the local here in WA yesterday,

Realisation that getting a carver has been the number 1 biggest help for my surfing since I started around 10 years ago, if your on the fence about getting one just do it, hit a bowl to practice in, have some fun and you’ll notice the difference in your surfing!

Yewww

Hi everyone! Looking for some feedback on my surfing. Here are a couple of waves of me—I’ve been working on my posture and trying to surf rail to rail. I uploaded this video last time somewhere here, but I don’t think I got feedback from Clay, so I’ll just post it again. Thanks for any feedback! Yeww!

Hello - what is the best way to upload a video for review ? I can’t find the link I used previously

Birds Fly, Surfers Glide – The Art of Energy Flow

Birds learning to fly go through a process that mirrors how surfers learn to harness wave energy. It starts with fear of launching—fledglings hesitate to leave the nest, just like beginner surfers hesitate on their first takeoffs. They flap their wings in place, building strength but afraid of the drop. Eventually, they take their first flight, often chaotic and uncoordinated, much like a beginner surfer wiping out.

At first, fledglings don’t know how to control their flight. They flap frantically, wasting energy, just like surfers who paddle inefficiently or try to muscle their way through turns. But over time, they begin to feel the air. They learn that lift isn’t created by flapping harder—it comes from small internal oscillations within each wingbeat. This lift allows them to stay airborne, and from there, flight becomes about fine-tuning, not forcing.

Once birds master lift, they stop relying on constant flapping. They find energy within the air—learning to glide, harness updrafts, and move with the wind rather than against it. Large birds like eagles ride rising warm air (thermals) to gain altitude effortlessly before gliding down with precision. Others use dynamic soaring, tapping into wind gradients much like a skilled surfer taps into different parts of the wave to generate speed.

Now, imagine sticking your hand out of a car window while driving. Keep it flat, and there’s little resistance. Tilt it slightly down, and the air pressure pushes it downward. Tilt left or right, and the airflow naturally guides it into a turn. You don’t have to force the movement—you set an intention and let the air do the work.

Surfing works the same way. Once the wave gives you speed—your version of “lift”—you don’t need to force turns or pump excessively. Instead, you use small adjustments in weight and board angle to let the wave’s energy do the work. The best surfers don’t muscle their way through turns; they feel the wave, anticipate the energy, and glide effortlessly.

Birds don’t fly—they surf the air.Surfers don’t fight waves—they fly on water.

Tap into the energy, trust the flow, and let the wave carry you.

Sometimes it's nice to see the Pros struggling too. This is typical at one of my local breaks in North Devon, UK. Getting smashed regularly on the inside of a gnarly Beach Break devoid of any obvious Bus Stops 🤣

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1s0px2QLl_Y

Bosu paddling/duck dive drills - How long are we supposed to do each block for?

Mini Simmons sizing

Does anyone have any experiences with Mini Simmons? One popped up in my neighborhood and it's very cheap but I'm also wondering whether I could make it work.

Any ideas on the sizing of those?

And no would it definitely would be my go to regular board, but I think the fun factor might be very high.