I definitely have an addiction to surfing. I feen like a meth addict... not that I really know what that feels like, being addicted to any type of drugs or alcohol 😂
I echo others, what a great son you are. There comes a time in our lives that we need to take care of ourselves. Glad you found your happy place! 🏄♂️
Replied on What got you in to surfing?During 2nd...
14 Jun 02:20
And that's how it happens... that first adrenaline pinch of catching a wave and nothing else matters!😂