My OREO Biscuit; Rincon, Puerto Rico, Jan 2024

This was on a 9’ Takayama In the Pink

The one near me in the States is at The American Dream Mall in New Jersey. We’re about 1ish hours by car from there. It’s small and indoors which is great for our winters here. The wave has a pretty short ride. I’ll be going again this Friday and am looking forward to some video footage.

Last weekend we were at the Waco, Texas Wave Pool and it couldn’t have been a more different experience than the wave at the NJ indoor pool. My husband and I are planning another Waco TX trip. It’s a bit of a hike, about 4 hours by plane.

I was at intermediate about 5 years ago but surgeries and hip replacement has had me out of the water for a while. So instead of trying to start at intermediate, I kicked myself all the way back to beginner. But this time with a high quality surf coaching program. I need to learn to surf properly. I was doing a work around to get up to my feet due to my limitations that I need to relearn, create new mind-muscle connections.

I can’t wait to see OUR progression!

Definitely very lucky!! Drone footage or surfing and waves is just so amazing, I imagine it’s how a bird sees flying about. You should hire him periodically. 😀 I wish there was someone here by me that offered that. I was always so against being filmed but it is so helpful!

Hi Alyssa, so I noticed something while filming the last two weeks. Which was something I never did before OMBE. Amazing the things you learn. My descent to the ground, if played backward is exactly what I need to do to get up. Somehow, in the Superman to “walk up”, my brain made things more complicated than need be. Mostly from learning how to do this the right way post hip replacement surgery due to a car accident. My trigger word has become “rise” as this tells me from a low crouched position to just rise with my hands forward… and not do anything else as I am already in the foot placement needed to be in neutral position. My cobra to plank and back foot front foot were fine. It was in the standing up part things were getting mottled.

I play back my videos in between each walk up and review and fix. I hope I’ve made sense.

Hi Brian, I live in Long Beach with my husband Rob. We surf right outside our backyard. I’ve been going to Skudin’s at American Dream Mall in Jersey recently, too, as waves have been non existent… dismal to be more precise. And who loves to put on full winter rubber, anyway???

It’s a beautiful video!! I’m new here so I’ll just take the position of admiring, for now. 😀

Hi Libby,

Thank you for your response.

Good to know about your experience. At my next indoor pool surf session I’m going to try a smaller board at the halfway mark where the A-Frames pickup height and speed. I can definitely smell the chlorine on me all day. Even after showering. It faded my rashguard on day one, too.

You have a little height on me. But I beat you on the weight. I have about 7 pounds on you. 😀 I carry wide shoulders and not enough in the caboose. 👀

We’re around the same age, too, which is exciting to know.

I’d love to see some videos of you surfing and progression some time.

Hi Libby,

That’s such great info there. 🙏👏

I have been to two different wave pools. One is chlorinated water. The other is salt water. Is the pool in Sydney salt water or chlorinated water?

When we go to the indoor chlorinated wave pool, we are told to use a board with way more volume since salinated ocean water is much more buoyant than chlorinated water. I feel like the board types I’m using in either scenario are heavy and clunky. When I’m out in ocean water on small days, my board definitely doesn’t fit and I feel dragged down.

After reading your reply, I’m going to jump on a smaller board 😍 For context, what’s your height and weight (only if you want to share that, of course).

Our home break is beach break here in Long Beach, NY. We do see some really nice waves come through, however, more times than we’d like it’s just sloppy beach break.

Great topic, thank you for sharing.

Libby, I feel the same way. My husband always throws more volume at me and I feel like I need less board.

On a stranger but related note, are females more buoyant in the water, adding even more buoyancy to a board?