Two perspectives. Best stance I have been able to achieve so far on my backhand.
Back foot still an issue. Still getting used to booties
I really dislike nose diving so I try take off on an angle specially with my 61ltr board. This is the board Clayton made for me. Second time on the left.
I pause at the wrong time in my get up. Instead of pausing the superman. I pause during the cobra to adjust angle of board on wave.
2 questions : on take off I stick my butt out to the left in order to maintain the angle. Is this incorrect?
Once on my feet I take a step forward with my front foot because I feel the nose of board is too high, but perhaps its in the air because my weight is on the back foot?
Si - I think you call it a double concave. Maria, I don't use wax. I hate it melting in the car and sticking to my wetsuit. The front black pad is just a rubber traction mat. The hexagon's are a type of grip and are called RS Pro. Do I slip on this. Sometimes but rarely, certainly not enough to send me back to the wax option.
Here's the board Clayton made for me. Tried it out for the first time today. Loved it! Can't wait to get to know it better. Dimensions 6'6", 21" x 2 3/4" 42ltrs. Thanks very much Clayton, I am so looking for to start Line 2.
PS Turn around time? Felt quicker than I can make a ham sandwich.
I should add that this session was the first time I have gone left in the pool. My previous session was a right hand wave and as I am reasonably happy with my take off now I decided to move on to Trimming. After about 20 waves I don't think I got on rail at all.
Was it me, the small wave or the board volume. Without any OMBE insights I decided to try a left wave for a change. I found heading down the line difficult, I either surfed or fell off the back of the wave.
But when I played back the video I just thought while I was lying down trying to get behind the surfer in front I actually managed to momentarily get on rail.
Thanks for commenting Graham, Alessandro and Scott I am going to go get on my bosu ball right now.
Hi Everyone I'm back from Bali. What can I say - I loved it, hated it, wanted to come home, never wanted to leave. It was unreal, except for a bout of Bali Belly. Didn't do a huge amount of surfing. It was too big for me, but spectacular to watch. I did find the courage to go out into what was probably the biggest surf I have ever been out it. How big is that? I don't know. Big enough that when it looked like a wave was going to break on top of me, I didn't just sh_t myself, I began to pray in earnest to the man upstairs. Surfed mostly at Dreamland, which at high tide developed a really wicked dumper right on the sand. This made it scarier getting out of the water than getting in. It wasn't a complete disaster I decided to pick up some of these bigger waves after they broke, some reformed enough for me to ride a bit of the face so I chalk that up as a win.
Hey Roxy have been meaning to say I thought the positioning of your feet on the mat in the last live stream was really great definitely a huge improvement from the last stream Now transfer to your Bosu