Don Chennavasin on OMBE Surf Co

Alvaro de la Cruz even though I have been surfing for longer, I’m in a similar progression spot as you as I have been dropping board size. With the shorter board, you can learn positioning and takeoffs, but things will be more critical and happen faster. If you reset your expectations of success, you’ll feel much better about your surfing. And know that progression will take longer on a shorter board, though if you’re in the water 3 times a week, that’s very good.

What has helped me on a shorter board is breaking it down the process into 3 steps that I can separately working on: (1) positioning ie catching the wave ie bus stop (2) taking off ie pop-up ie walk-up (3) turns ie trim and manuevers ie riding the wave ie coffe cup. One session, I’ll just work on one of these areas and be happy with any progression. And in a crowded break and not beginner friendly waves, I’m stoked when I do (1) well.

Fast breaking waves require (1) and (2). While positioning I need to be in the water for, the OMBE dry lands drills for (2) have been very helpful. Being comfortable and consistent with my walk-up helps me stand up on the board at the appropriate spot on the wave. Versus being in the flats, which happens when the pop-up is slow or inefficient.

Lastly, just spend time in the water watching the good surfers positioning and catching waves. Don’t try to catch waves yourself, but watch the water draw up and throw. The more you do this, the slower the waves will appear. What was a fast breaking wave will become a less fast breaking wave.

If the water wasn’t so cold around me, I’d like to body surf. It makes the waves less intimidating and allows more attempts in positioning - rep count is way higher.