Doug Coleman

Swansea, Australia

26 Nov 16:23

I share your issues with the takeoff of of intermiate (last 20 minutes). It’s such a technical take off for such a shitty reward. It is just not like an ocean wave where you can feel the wave and pop up. It seems like there’s a fine line between paddling in or getting hung up. When you do get to the point of popping up the wave sucks up big time. As an old bastard (68) with a bung knee and metal implant in my wrist I find it really difficult. I’m not on my own as I’ve noticed more people in Sydney struggle with it compared to the similar Melbourne setting. I’ve compared the videos at a similar time and Sydney sucks and the wave is not as big. Plus im a shitty surfer!

19 Jan 12:05

Thanks Clayton. I am so aware of my elbows but I need to get over my shitty default stiff arms. Something to work on. Cheers Doug

Reply

Tim is an awesome human. Pretty sure you guys were sharing this wave with us in the Ments. Might have been the day I paddled over to your boat.

12 Oct 14:13

Now I’ve got Coanda effects to oscillate my Oreo biscuit into my coffee cup and as for that Hohmann bastard he’s the reason I’m spilling my coffee!!!

Thanks for articulating the act of surfing in a scientific manner. Both of my brain cells are now in a dizz atm hahaha