Maria Molè The long grey hair in a pony tail is a bit distinctive 🙃
A couple of years ago I was sitting on my board at Croyde, waiting for a wave, when a guy who was free swimming across the Bay came past, then stopped and said "It's Graham, isn't it? We met at the OMBE session at The Wave in Bristol!" 😲👍
Commented on Need more twist in my life, right? I’...
30 Aug 08:04
You're looking nice and relaxed, but I think your problem is that you're standing on your back foot which means you can't twist.
Look at where your weight is and the angle of the nose. If you got your hips forward so you're stacked on the front leg, you'd be able to twist and look back at the foam instead of gazing way down the line.
Try some surf skating in a bowl and get on the front foot and you should find it much easier 👍