You're bending from the waist, rather than stacking on the front foot and compressing/ kissing the knees.
Have a look at the Bosu ball drills to practise your stance.
Portsmouth, United Kingdom
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14 Dec 15:01
You can get waves in quite a few places along the south coast of the UK if you look on Surf Line, but they're generally either small or messy (or both ☹️ )
Just occasionally, however, there's some really nice conditions if the stars align!
I was using my 7'6 Torq Mod Fun, but if I'd been able to paddle more I'd have been on the 6'11 Clayton Ambassador.
Much of the time, however, the only one I can sensibly use is the 8'2 Torq V+ because there's so little push.
Where are you coming from?